My husband and I have no woodworking experience. We are in the process of removing a blotchy stain job on alder wood indoor railings. We sanded the old stain off with 100 grit and will be sanding with 120 today in advance of applying the stain. One of the problem areas was where we applied putty into joints and nail holes. Although it was sanded before staining, the residue of the putty around the joints and nail holes caused big unnatural blotches. All of that has been sanded out and now we have some open joints. When do we apply wood putty and with what product exactly? Research of some old forums suggests tinted wood putty applied prior to the final varnish. We need the idiots guide here because we have no knowledge of the products or methods. Thanks!
Putty after stain so you can match the finished result, as the putty will not absorb the stain. Then your finish coats of polyurethane on top of that.
You need to apply the first coat of poly before applying the colored putty. The poly seals the wood better than the stain and you eliminate the danger of the oils in the putty softening up and moving or removing any of the stain. A rag damp with paint thinner can be used to wipe up any errant putty and to help keep your fingers clean. I normally stain, poly, sand lightly and then putty before applying the final coats of poly.
I haven't looked for tinted wood putty. Is it available or does one have to tint it themselves? Also, when you say poly what exactly is that? When I go looking in the store, I will probably need the whole name. (sorry, I am really ignorant here.) Is it applied with a paint brush?
Poly is short/slang for polyurethane. Poly dries to a harder film than varnish = longer wear. It can be applied by spray or brush [some will use a roller but it doesn't always look too good] Colored putty comes in little jars and is usually stocked near the stain, poly and varnish. It comes in an assortment of colors. I like to get the 2 colors closest to what I need and intermix them as needed to get a close to perfect match.
It depends on the putty you use. The putty I have used the most is Famowood. You put it on before you stain or apply your clear finish. Famowood does take stain, but it will typically stain darker than the wood. It comes in a handful of different colors. To avoid those blotches around the areas you putty, avoid smearing it over large areas. Make sure you sand it well before staining to remove all of the putty from the surface. Try wiping the area with mineral spirits to see if you can spot anything left behind.
droo - what you are using is what I would call a wood filler. I know some accept stain better than others. The putty Mitch and I are referring to is pretty much the same thing as 'painter's putty' except with colorant added to make it match the wood/stain. Years ago before pre packaged colored putty we had to add colorant to white putty to get the right color and then add whiting to the mix to help dry up all the oils from the colorant.
I haven't had trouble with putty going in after the stain and before the first coat of poly but it's not something I've done a lot. Mark knows this stuff better than I do so my new process will be first coat of poly and then the putty from now on.
Mitch, another benefit to apply a coat of varnish/poly first is if using the oil base version it will deepen the colors in the wood and make it easier for you to match the color. I like it when the putty match is good enough where you either can't see the putty or have to hunt for it
Tags: wood, filler, putty, before, staining, better than, coat poly, first coat, first coat poly, wood putty
I have a 16 year old tiller with a 5 hp Briggs and Stratton model 135202 engine. The engine will start with 1st pull and run for 10 to 15 minutes then cut off and will not crank back up. Does this sound like a carburetor problem?
Hello Greg Self, Sounds like possibly a ignition coil issue, Start the engine and let it run till it dies then check for spark at the spark plug. If no spark is present it's time for a new ignition coil. Good Luck
If the coil tests good, check the vent in the fuel cap. If it's clogged it can restrict flow.
Think I have solved the problem since I was able to use it for over an hour with no problems.The steps I took are 1.Screw mixture adjustment all way in then back off 1-1/2 turns 2 Slow speed adjustment all way in 3. After engine was warmed up manually held throttle wide open, sprayed carburetor cleaner into carburetor keeping engine from stalling out after every spray, after 5 or 6 sprays let engine run for 15 or 20 minutes before using. I was able to completely till garden area 80ft by 20ft with no issues.Thanks for all the advice I received.
Moved into a brand new house last January equiped with a natural gas supplied tankless water heater (Rinnai model) which also supplies the radiant heating throughout the house. The vent is a horizontal.No complaints so far either on the hot water supply or with the heating, that is until last week. The warning sensor has now started to go off randomly either when I take a shower or use the diswasher. The error messages are either ''power interruption during bath fill'' or ''flame failure''.... I have to do is a reset, however, this should not be happening. The vent does not seem to be obstructed'. I've read all the info on this sytem but I don't dare taking it apart to investigate the problem since the whole thing is still under warranty by the builder, and they will come and look at it ( after much insistance on my behalf). My question is, (so not to look like a complete idiot when the plumber finally shows up), has anyone experienced this type of problem and what was the probable cause. Because the two error messages seem unrelated to each other this is throwing me off as to what the problem could be. thanks
don't worry about looking like an idiot, all the pressure's on the plumber to look knowledgeable. you're the customer, you're supposed to be clueless. do you have a manual? it has a list of error codes and possible causes. the flame failure is a fairly common code and can be caused by quite a few problems. what size is the gas line supplying the unit? it must be 3/4 or larger. when you say the vent is horizontal, does it just run a few feet and terminate on the outside or does it run for quite a distance? if it runs for a longer distance, was a condensation tee and line installed? there are gas pressure adjustments for high and low fire possitions that can cause this problem if they're not in spec. nothing you should be messing with though. if it's under warrantee just have the plumber come out and politely ask if you can watch. these are a fair bit more complicated than the old style heaters and i'm sure you'll learn a few things. my service manuals are in my truck. i'll look at them tommorow and see if i can help you any more. paul
What is the general consenses on the Postmaster Fence Posts? The Master Halco Website is pretty convincing. However, they are about $45 a piece from my local supplier! Home Depot and Lowes both sell another Master Halco product of similar design with a similar name. they cost about $16 a piece. Are they equally as strong? Same quality steel, galvanizing thickness, etc? When I called Master Halco they acknowledge that Home Depot and Lowes carries the product, but could not provide me any technical information.
Where in the store did you find this other Master Halco product? We have both Lowes and HD here, but I have never seen them. I was planning on using 2 3/8 round pipe and simpson PGTs, but if these are better then maybe I'll use them. $45 is a bit steep for bent metal. I guess you can charge what you want when you've got the patent. -Marc
At HD they are upright in the racks along side the round galv. fence posts. At Lowes they were in the hidden in the back of the outdoor portion of the store near the prefab fence panels. along side pallets and bundles of additional fencing product inventory. I just happened to notice them piled there in a dark corner. if I wasn't already familiar with the product, I would not have even known what they were. And like everything else at Lowes they were a couple dollars more. I actually used them with some prefab fence panels for a very short section, close off a section of side yard. They worked fairly well, although the whole fence flexes a little more than I would like. My next project is a bigger undertaking. It's a 6' high panel fence on top of a 24 CMU wall. I'd like the posts to be about 2 feet longer so that they reach down into the footing and I'd like them to be a bit more rigid.
Thanks, I'll try and see if I can find these at our local stores. If I remember correctly 8 foot 2 3/8 round galvanized poles were about $11. Can't remember how much Simpson PGT's are, but assuming they are at least a couple of bucks a piece, the Master Halco product may be slightly a better deal. But if they make the fence flex too much, I am not sure they are worth the cost savings. Has anyone here used the $45 posts?
Ahhh...That get back the gist of my original question!
I am installing a 100+ foot fence alongside my property using HD purchased privacy panels and 8' Postmaster Fence Posts purchased from the Fence Factory ($28 each) in Agoura Hills, CA. I am putting the posts 24 inches into the ground and so far things are going great (6 of 16 panels installed). Along with 150+ feet of chain link that I installed with the help of day labor, this is my first fence project.
I took the plunge and bought the postmaster posts for my fence. When I compared the price of round chainlink style posts and simpson PGTs the cost of the postmaster was not much of a jump. I found them online for $25 a piece. Not cheap, and I had to pick them up myself at a Master Halco distributor to avoid hefty shipping charges. It worked out okay though, and I almost have them all installed. The posts are very sturdy, I believe they spec out at .120 thick. Now I just hope they last forever. -Marc
Marc, Can you please tell me the specific website where you found the posts??? I am in Spokane, WA...cannot find anything here except at a contractor supplier ($45 each!!!) Thanks, Michael
Java 4 y/o post, I doubt you will get a reply...I'd suggest contacting the manufacturer and see who distributes them in your area.
Replying for any one researching these. I also found these posts hard to source but the local master halco distribution center sold them to me since there wasn't a local retailer. They are incredibly substantial. They use a special method for attaching wood to them and have to go in a certain way. For gate posts you double them for extra stability. Regular post is good -- the doubled version is very solid. I really don't see this post ever wearing out like a normal wood post put in the ground. But it wasn't worth all my trouble to find and purchase them in hind sight -- unless I was planning on being the house for 15+ years.
I notice that many of your members have the same problem I do (mouse droppings and urine in the attic). My building is not a house but a new woodworking shop. It is wood framed with a peaked roof on wood trusses at 24 on centers. I stapled a transparent plastic vapor barrier to the underside of the trusses and placed 12 of fiberglass insulation above it. The building has only been used for storage for several years. I plan to finish it before winter (ceiling, electrical, heating system).Unfortunately, over the past few years, I have allowed the mice to get in, and, through the vapor barrier I can see numerous areas where there are mouse droppings. In hindsight, I should have left the insulation out until I was ready to finish the workshop.Assuming I can get the mice removed and prevented from re-entering, would it be OK to leave things as they are (the attic area will never be disturbed or used) ,or should I try to clean this up ? Any advice would be appreciated.
It is important to eliminate the infestation, seal all entries, remove the insulation, clean and disinfect the area, and inspect wiring for damage. Mice are carriers of diseases and lice. One disease of particular concern is hantavirus. http://ehso.com/ehshome/hantavirus_faqs.htm
I am wary of using poisons to kill anything since the poison can be transferred to pets, children, raptors, and so on down the line. However I have found a good product to use that is safe for down line entities. You will want to rid your area of the mice first, then do as Twelvepole says about sealing it, etc. Go to http://www.agorganics.com/products/Safe-Kill-Mouse-Killer-Bait-Packs-by-Spectrum-Brands/12/231.html to see the product. There may be others on the market, but this works and isn't dangerous. I have dogs, cats, chickens, bears all share the same ground, and I would hate for one of them to pick up and ingest a poisoned mouse.
You can't seal a building well enough to keep out mice. If the openeing is too small, they will just make it bigger. But it only takes an opening of 1/4-1/2 for them to get in. I leave the poison(green stuff) in the attic for them. When they eat it it swells and chokes them, good stuff. As for other critters getting them. They usually die quickly in the attic, and quickly dessicate. There are not many other critters in my attic/basement.
Tags: mice, attic, insulation, down line, mouse droppings, other critters, vapor barrier
I had the pleasure of having a chimney fire a month ago. Nothing major happened and insurance is covering everything which includes tearing down and replacing my chimney and fireplace. Picasa Web Albums - Ahren - Nice House Pi... (-- as you can see the chimney is a major part of the curb appeal of the house so it will be rebuilt on the outside to match. However I'm free to do the inside however I like. I've pretty much decided on wood but could be convinced to pellet. Gas is probably out as the house isn't plumbed for it. here is a picture inside: Picasa Web Albums - Ahren - Nice House Pi... I'd like to get something a little bit more efficient (A LOT more efficient actually). The fireplace is the main sorce of heat for the downstairs which is 900sq ft. I'll probably put some vents in so the heat can get upstairs as well. I am debating getting the fireplace rebuilt with the intentions of putting in an insert OR putting in a wood fire box instead. The benefit of the firebox is it's WAY cheaper since i dont need a full chimney... just the stove piping and then a brick face (to retain the original look). The firebox is a bit more efficient than the insert (73% compared to 65%) and comes with a blower. What are some of your thoughts on this? Is there anything wrong with doing a fire box? anything i'd regret? Thanks so much
Consider costs of fuel. I think there is a chimney/fireplace section of the forums, too. Its here: Fireplaces, Heating Stoves, Flues and Chimneys But i dont have the ability to move threads and its a pain to do anyhow... Is wood cheaper (and cleaner) for you to run. If your chimney doesnt extend very high, you could get a lot of wood smell in your house, or neighbors houses with wood. Pellet stoves burn a lot cleaner if that is going to be a factor. Compare the costs of wood purchased and delivered (or done by you) and maintaining a wood fireplace with that of say, a pellet stove. I think pellet stove would be more efficient and everything overall, but you lose the nice aestethics of a wood-burning fire. In that case, given the dimensions of your existing cavity for the fireplace would be enough for a few local places to give you bids on whether or not an insert or a re-do would be better for you. I'd personally do some kind of insert because htey would most likely put a new exhaust liner inside your existing brick chimeny. That would make me feel a lot safer about having a fire in there again.
I am no expert in this area by any means, but given those gable vents, I would go for a clean burning fuel. I think the smoke would end up in the attic and get pulled in through the attic entrance. I like a fire smell but I like it contained, but thats just me.
Thanks for the reply. I have to do a 100% complete rebuild. No question about it. They may even have to do a new foundation. The chimney extends to a height of about 30 feet. I don't really understand how smoke could get into the attic? I agree that pellet does burn more efficiently but i really like the look of a wood burning fire.
Smoke wont enter the attic, but the smell might.
I'm still missing something... How would smell get into my attic if the chimney is outside and there is chimney pipe running 30' up?
Anyone have any other opinions?
Tags: insert, firebox, fireplace, more efficient, Ahren Nice, Ahren Nice House, Albums Ahren, Albums Ahren Nice, Albums Ahren Nice House, chimney fireplace, fuel think, into attic, Nice House, pellet stove
Hello, I am looking at different paints and came across Grand distinction from Menards. I like their color selection. I was wondering if anyone used this paint and what are your thoughts? I am looking to paint my kitchen. Thanks Warren
Welcome to the forums Warren! I've never seen a Menard's store but assume they are more or less the same as Lowes or HD. That said, a big box typically stocks coatings based on price rather than quality. IMO you'd be better off getting your paint from a local paint store [not a paint dept] They should be able to match any paint or color sample you bring in. Whatever paint you decide on, it should be an enamel [most likely latex].
I agree with Mark - I only buy paint and supplies or seek advice from those working in paint stores, never paint deparments in bigger stores
Thanks for the input. I will keep looking for a paint that suits my need for my kitchen.
Warren83: I have a different opinion than my colleagues, Mitch17 and Marksr. When a chain of hardware stores like Lowes, Home Depot, Home Hardware or Menards decides to introduce it's own brand of house paints, they'll normally approach all of the different paint manufacturers like Pittsburg Paints, Sherwin Williams, ICI Ltd., etc. and ask for a quote to supply a line of paints at what the hardware store considers a reasonable price for quality paint. (That part is important; the hardware store chain dictates what the price range of the paint will be.) The only variable is that each hardware store has a different number in mind when it comes to deciding how much is a reasonable price to pay for quality paint. But, since the price range of the paint has already been set, and since each supplier is going to be basing their quote on supplying the chain of hardware stores with thousands of gallons of paint monthly, the volume discount the store would normally get actually ends up going to the customer in the form of better binders or a better additives package in each can. This is why paints like Behr Paint from Home Depot (which doesn't get much respect otherwise) typically rates very highly in publications like Consumer Reports. Consumer reports will never say that Behr makes excellent paints... they don't. But, for the price you pay for the paint, it's better value for the money than you'd normally expect. If I had only $18 to buy a gallon of paint, I'd probably buy Behr. I'd object to buying and using $18 paint, but the best lousy paint out there is probably Behr. Ditto for American Tradition paint marketed by Lowes. I've never used the stuff, but all the comments I've read on that paint were excellent. For years, Sears Beauty Tone interior paints and their Weather Beater exterior paints were consistantly rated very high in Consumer Reports magazine, but I've never used that brand either. I certainly agree that people that own paint stores generally know more about paint than people that work in paint departments. But I disagree that the quality of paint you'd buy at a hardware store would be expected to be any lower than that purchased from a paint store. If anything, in my view, it makes sense that it would be the other way around. That's because the chain of hardware stores (like Menards) would tell the paint manufacturers what they want the paint to cost. So, since the selling price is fixed, the volume discount the store would get ends up going to the customer in the form of better quality paint at that price. And, a chain of hardware stores would command a larger volume discount than a single paint store, which tend to be privately owned businesses. I'd try Googling Grand Distinction and see if you can find some comments on this paint from people who have used it. If nothing else, I can tell you that everything I've heard about American Tradition paint from Lowes has been very positive. And, I use Pratt Lambert Accolade Satin in the F4790 tint base on all of the walls in my apartment block, and I think it's a great paint and I'm sure you'd like it as well. But, it costs about $50 $Cdn per gallon.
Nestor: Thank you very much for your insight. It makes perfect sense. I did a Google search and I read some very positive opinions in regards to this paint. I am pretty sure I am making a trip to Menards .
Warren: I've got an idea: Since I KNOW that PL Accolade Satin is an excellent paint, why not buy: a QUART of Accolade Satin in the F4790 tint base in the colour you want, a QUART of Behr Satin ENAMEL in the colour you want, and a QUART of Menards satin Grand Distinction paint in the colour you want, and compare them to see how the Grand Distinction stacks up. Look for better hide and much less paint spatter in a quality paint. Also, once the paints are completely dry (after 2 or 3 days), scrub each one with a Magic Eraser the same number of times and see if any of them lose their gloss as a result. You can always paint over the Behr paint with a better paint. See, I'm thinking that you may think the Grand Distinction paint is the best paint made, until you try a truly good paint like one of Pratt Lambert's top-of-the-line Accolade paints.
While that's a great plan for testing the various brands, it won't necessarily be cheap. I suspect the price for 3 quarts would be close to the price of 2 gallons
Paint is typical of most products in that you get what you pay for I wouldn't use paint that cost $18/gallon, it's harder to apply and may need more coats than paint costing $30-40/gallon Is that a savings? Keep in mind every manufacturer has multiple lines of paint - I use Benjamin Moore paint but would not touch their bottom of the line stuff. The big box stores will typically not carry top brands or at least not their top line of paint.
Along with the advice offered above, you need to look at the paints themselves. We manufacture our own products and consistently have people coming in to purchase our middle grade paints because they out perform the top end paints at the box stores. We also carry a national line of paints and I have had to return product because their top end did not perform nearly as well as our middle of the road products. Further, look (if you can) at what is in the products. You will find various fillers, such as crystalline silica, in the paints offered by bigger companies because it is a cheap filler that adds volume but detracts from performance. My middle of the road paint retails for $30 a gallon. I would put that up against Regal from BM and Accolade from PL, both of which retail for $40-$50 a gallon in my area. I would put my contractor grade product (retails for about $23) up against any middle of the raid paint.
Bclacquer: You said: You will find various fillers, such as crystalline silica, in the paints offered by bigger companies because it is a cheap filler that adds volume but detracts from performance. Every latex paint will contain some extender pigments. The purpose of extender pigments is not just as fillers. 1. Extender pigments lower the gloss of the paint. Were it not for what you call fillers, all paints would dry to a high gloss film. 2. Extender pigments improve the hiding ability of the paint. 3. Extender pigments help give the paint viscosity so that it doesn't run on vertical surfaces as it's drying. 4. When a latex paint forms a film, there is considerable tension in that film as it's forming. Adding extender pigments reduces that tension so that the paint sticks well to the substrate, but doesn't pull excessively hard on the substrate. This is exactly why it's recommended to paint over chaulked surfaces with oil based paints (which don't develope any tension in them during their film formation process). So, extender pigments are NOT simply fillers like you put into drywall to reduce the amount of gypsum needed. They can also be an important component of the paint to give it certain characteristics. Take a look at this web page: Pigment basics. - Free Online Library You will note that the silica extender pigments and ceramic microspheres are the hardest extender pigments in use. Those extender pigments will only be used in coatings that are hard and strong enough to support them well, and in doing so, provide good abrasion resistance. Both ceramic microspheres and crystalline or fumed silica are the most expensive extender pigments, and are anything but an indication of poor quality. Some paints will use clays, such as kaolin clay, as a filler material, but no one uses a relatively expensive material like pulverized silica sand as a filler. Silica sand is relatively expensive to begin with, and the process of pulverizing it into a fine powder is also expensive in that it is hard on the machinery that does that work. The silica dust gets into the bearings of the machinery and causes greater maintenance costs. Consequently, anyone selling crystalline silica will include all of his overhead costs to make the stuff, including maintaining the machinery. So, no one would use crystalline silica simply as a filler when you can buy clay, chaulk or talcum powder for a fraction of the cost. Marksr: You said: While that's a great plan for testing the various brands, it won't necessarily be cheap. I suspect the price for 3 quarts would be close to the price of 2 gallons. I expect the original poster would realize that three quarts of paint is going to cost more than a single gallon. The idea here isn't to save him money, but to compare his Menard's paint to both high and low quality paints to see for himself how it stacks up. Not only will he learn what to look for in a quality paint, he'll also get his original question answered: Is it any good?
Hello, Well, I went out and bought the Grand Distinction. I bought Pacific Pine color for the walls and an off white for the ceiling. I have to say I am impressed with the quality. The paint went on very well after I got rid of my Wagner paint stick and went to use the good old fashioned paint roller. I will wait until tomorrow and see if I have to give the ceiling another coat but so far it looks good. I probably should of waited until the sun was out because I had a little trouble finding were I left off. I would recommend Grand Distintion Warren83
Warren: With a name like Pacific Pine, your paint is undoubtedly a Hunter Green colour. The green pigment used in most paint company's colourants is called Thalo Green which is short for Phthalocyanine Green. This is a very common green pigment because it's inexpensive and has good color fastness (it doesn't fade from sunlight quickly), but it doesn't really hide very well. What you want to look for tomorrow morning is a picture framing effect around each wall. That is, around the perimeter of the room you'll have two coats of paint: 1. where you used a brush to cut in where the wall meets the ceiling, and another 1. where you filled in the wall with a roller (prolly). Where those two coats of paint overlap, there will be two coats of paint but only one coat in the middle area of the wall that was only done with a roller (prolly). If you see any of that picture framing effect (which is characterized by a greater density of colour around the perimeter of the wall), it means you're not getting complete hide in one coat. This isn't an indication of low quality in a green or blue paint because (so far as I know) every paint company uses Thalo Green and Thalo Blue as their green and blue colourants, respectively, so you wouldn't have gotten any better or worse results had you used any other paint of the same colour. You would have only gotten better hide had you chosen a flatter gloss in anyone's Pacific Pine coloured paint. Let us know what it's like after it's dried for 24 hours.
Nestor: I should probably not make too wide of cut in to minimize the picture frame effect. Thanks for the heads up Warren
Warren: No, the solution to low hide is not in using a thinner brush for doing the cutting in. The solution is in applying more coats until you can't see any difference in colour density between 2 coats and 3 or 3 coats and 4. I tell people to apply an extra coat of paint around light switches and look for increased colour density around the light switch. You need more paint around a light switch because that area is always being cleaned to remove dirt from people using their tennis swing to turn the lights on and off. You see, latex paint is really just a slurry of particles suspended in a liquid. The particles consist of: 1. clear, transluscent or white extender pigments 2. coloured primary pigments, and most importantly 3. hard, colourless clear or transluscent blobs of plastic called binder resins. The liquid consists of a low volatility water soluble solvent (called a coalescing solvent, or a coalescing agent) dissolved in water. In latex paints, all of the liquids evaporate from the paint as the paint dries, leaving only the solids behind. Thus, the properties of the dry paint film are determined entirely by the solids in the can, not the liquids. (PS: the coalescing solvent used in many, if not most, latex paints is a product called Texanol from Eastman Chemical. So, if you want to give your house that freshly painted smell whenever you want, just buy some Texanol and spray it around like an air freshener.) http://www.eastman.com/pages/product...torType=market But, what's important to understand here is that once the paint film is dry, some of the film's properties come from the extender pigments (like abrasion resistance, the gloss level and some of the hide), some come from the coloured (or primary) pigments (which is the paint colour, most of the hide and it's colourfastness) and some come from the binder resins (like whether the paint has good acid, alkali and UV resistance, how well it sticks, how hard a film it forms, how resistant to water and high humidity it is). In a white or off-white paint, the hide will come primarily from the white pigment Titanium dioxide in the paint. Unfortunately, you can't add white titanium dioxide to a Hunter Green paint without changing the paint's colour. So, Hunter Green colour paints are made by taking a tint base that would otherwise dry clear or transluscent, and adding lots and lots and lots of Thalo Green colourant to it. So, in that colour of paint, you have to rely on the Thalo Green pigment and the extender pigments for hide. In a high gloss Hunter Green paint, there's very little extender pigment, and the Thalo Green simply doesn't have great hide. In that case you have to apply more coats of paint. You could have also applied a green tinted high hiding primer for your first coat. The white titanium dioxide and lots of large extender pigments in the primer would have done wonders to hide the colour of the substrate, and then all you would have had to do was hide that lighter green paint with darker Pacific Pine green paint. Cut in with a sash brush, fill in with a roller, allow 24 hours to dry, look for a picture framing effect, and get back to us. You should also be aware that most people use a sash brush wrong for cutting in. The correct way to use a sash brush is shown below:
Nestor: Thanks for all the info..very informative. It looks like I should make my cut in as narrow as possible to make the picture frame effect less. Thanks for the pic on cut in. I usually use one of those pads with wheels but the usually makes for a very wide cut in edge. Warren
Cutting in 1 wall [or section] at a time will help to reduce the 'picture frame' effect. Ideally the rolling is done while the brush work is still wet......... but the better the coverage, the less it will be an issue.
Hello I just painted 2 walls in my kitchen using Grand distinction and the color is Pacific Green in satin. I cannot believe the coverage and how nice this paint went on. I could get away with one coat easy but I am way too fussy since the only thing I would like to give a second coat is where I cut in. I will send a pic of my first coat soon. I would highly recommend this paint Warren
Let the paint dry for 24 to 48 hours. Wet paint will always hide considerably better than dry paint. (Post again if you want to know why.) So, you really won't be able to evaluate whether you've gotten complete hide in one coat until the paint finishes forming a film. You can tell when film formation is complete by the newly painted smell in the room. Once you smell the coalescing solvents, then you know that they have evaporated from the paint film, and that's the final step in latex paint film formation. It'll only be then that you can really tell if there's any picture framing effect, and therefore if you've gotten complete hide in one coat or not. If your paint colour is a dark or Hunter Green, then I'd be suprised if you could get complete hide with one coat no matter whose name is on the can. However, if it's a pale green (with a lot of white in it), then it would be more plausible in my books. Just don't assume that if the wet paint hides the underlying colour completely then the dry paint film will as well. That'd be a mistake.
Got it...thanks I am planning on a second coat anyways.. Warren
It has been 17 hours and I am debating a second coat. The first coat still looks great..The only thing I notice is that is a couple small areas I must have cut in at the ceiling and spread the paint too thin. Warren
I'd suggest just touching up those areas and see how it dries. The darker the color and the higher the sheen - the harder it is to touch up paint.... but you won't know until you try
I wouldn't even look at it until you smell the coalescing solvent.
Job done Gave it a second coat and I would highly recommend the paint I used. Thanks for all the painting pointers Warren P.S Trying to decide what to paint next...
I need to connect some 4 corrugated pipe about 15' under a gravel driveway that gets occasional use (path to backyard) by my truck and rarely a skidsteer when I need to rent one. At Lowe's I see a thin white PVC drain pipe that says 1500 lbs crush on it ($10). They also carry one that's green with flare at one end ($20) but says nothing about crush. The last choice is schedule 40 PVC which seems to be the most substantial but also says nothing about crush. Which is the best bet? It can be buried only an inch or two deep then will be surfaced with gravel. Also, connect PVC to the corrugated?
My understanding is the SDR-35 (the green pipe) would be the way to go. It will handle under-driveway stresses much better than the white drain pipe. It attaches just with the flare end and has a rubber gasket. I'd try to get it a bit deeper though if possible. 1-2 doesn't give it much protection. You may find yourself having to replace it after a couple years (which might not be too horrible if necessary). You should be able to get a PVC adapter to go from 4 black corrugated to 4 PVC. I'd imagine you could use standard PVC cement on the SDR, but I'm not certain.
I also reside in S. FL. I prefer corrugated (HDPE) polyethylene, dual wall drainage pipe (a/k/a as ADS/Hancor dual wall/N-12 pipe) in a situation similar to what you describe. Unlike the single wall corrugated pipe carried by the big box stores, the dual wall would be significantly more crush resistant but I don’t know the ratings. You’ll find dual wall drainage pipe at irrigation suppliers, especially if they also specialize in drainage pipe related supplies. In 2006, I paid $20.82 for Hancor dual wall/N-12 4 X 20'; 4” snap end caps were $2.95/ea. This is based on wholesale pricing. I can’t visualize what your doing when stating the top of pipe cannot be buried more than 1” or 2” below ground, and that your connecting pipe is 15’ under the driveway (or did you mean inches?). I have several 8” and 12” pipes buried deeper in swales that allow tractor trailer trucks and heavy equipment to drive over them. In one situation where depth was limited, I used a technique of installing two smaller diameter pipes side-by-side rather one large diameter 2X in size. One issue is your concern about the pipe being crushed. The other issue is that weight of a vehicle can cause the pipe to lift on one side if both wheels don’t contact the pipe simultaneously. A related issue is that the pipe initially wants to float upward during heavy rains although that has only been a temporary problem for me until settling in. Remember, during our wet season the ground can become saturated although may be you would not be driving over your pipe in that type condition. If you could get the pipe down a few inches more, I would be more comfortable saying you should be okay . . . your vehicles are light but have you thought about whether something like a loaded dump truck or other heavy equipment might need to get into your back yard?. I would stay away from the thin wall PVC irrespective of it saying “1500 lbs crush . . . I would at least want to see mfg. paperwork making that claim and would be skeptical if Lowe’s personnel have a hand made sign over this pipe.
Sorry - the pipe will run under the drive for a distance of 15' (the drive is 15' wide). Depth of the pipe has to be very shallow to maintain some slope between the drain grate in front of my detached garage (unfortunately just slightly above grade) and the pipe leading out of the yard to the swale. Florida - not really much elevation to work with! 1500# is printed on the thin-wall pipe with the other specs, not info from staff. Actually I think the Schedule 40 said 4400# but it didn't say crush so I have no idea what it means. So the consensus is either the green or the dual wall corrugagted I think (which I've never seen anywhere)? Nobody recommends Schedule 40 (thick-walled PVC) for this?
Yup, pulled another one out of the trash. (but it looks very promising) Toro trimmer model 51930 s/n 230013147. I go to the Toro website to look up some parts but it tells me there is no line drawing (I tried my model as well as the A and B) and as such I can't find parts. I go under manuals and see a part manual. That gives me the drawings and part numbers however when I go elsewhere on the net to look for these parts they appear not to exist and this trimmer does not exist. Places I have looked stop at Toro trimmer model 51927 which is a 16 gas trimmer from 1997 whereas mine is a 17 gas trimmer from 2003 (according to the Toro website). I'm guessing this is an MTD but how can I find parts?
google - jacks small engines I have found numerous parts for dated lawn equipment there.
I've used them before but can't find this trimmer there, thanks though.
just google for Toro Trimmer Parts and a bunch of places show up. Have a good one. Geo
That is my problem, I'm no stranger to finding parts online but I can't find this trimmer or any of its Toro part numbers listed anywhere. Example, I found at the Toro website the primer assembly is part number 01183. Go on the net and numerous small engine repair shop websites and that part doesn't exist. Another example is fuel tank assembly part no. 3075701. Can't find it.
Go to the website listed above, from the links on the right hand side of the home page select parts / service. Then click on Go to the Homelite Store. Enter your model number (51930) and click the search button. This should show your units illustrated parts list. This unit was manufactured for Toro by Homelite. Only Toro dealers that signed up with Homelite will have access to parts, but any Homelite dealer should be able to get you what you need, or you can purchase from Homelite as well. Best of Luck...
I was just on toro.com and found your trimmer and parts Toro.com Homeowner Yard Tools Gas Trimmers Model then select the parts lookup from the left column, put in model and s/n then select the model then the manual you want to see(parts) and wait for it to load. Have a good one. Geo
Thanks everyone. Geo, I got to there but when you click 'look up parts' it says there is no line drawing available and that was my dead end. I found the parts 'manual' listed under manual but couldn't find parts elsewhere using Toro part numbers. 30Year, That was on the money. Sometimes it's so confusing for us folks that do this as a hobby. I ran into this last month when playing with a Ryobi which apparently was bought out by MTD. Luckily found a website that listed the Ryobi and supersceeded (sp) the MTD part numbers. Thanks!!
Well for future reference, if you play with a new Ryobi the ones with the yellow shaft, they are also Homelite units.
Tags: find, toro, trimmer, parts, online, part numbers, find parts, this trimmer, Toro website, assembly part, find this, find this trimmer
Our 12 year-old system has 2 750 gallon tanks with air pump that runs 27/7. The effluent smells like sewer water when the pump/sprinkler comes on. The system was pumped out about 6 months ago. That helped for a while, but the odor returned in about 2 months. How can I determine if the air pump is producing enough air volume and if the air is being pumped into the tank? Would an additional aerator help? Thanks
Hi and welcome. Can you hear the bubbling in the tank? Sometimes the aerators that are outside the tank, can be running but no air is being put in the tank. If you have the one that sits out side the tank, the small diffusers in the tank may be stopped up, air line may be cracked, or the rubber diaphragms are busted. It just depends on the type of aerator you have. If you are smelling sewer the air is not getting to the water.
The first is theAquasafe air pump, second is the access covers to the two tanks, third is the internals of the 2nd tank access showing chlorine reservoir. I can hear and see water dripping into the 2nd tank. I get a mild sewage odor when I lift the 2nd access cover. I don't know determie if there is any air flowing from the pump into the tank.
Unplug the air hose from the air pump and feel the outlet. Is there air blowing out? Those pumps need to be rebuilt ever once in a while. Under the airpump lid there is a aircleaner. It may be plugged. You need to clean it and inspect the pump. If there is air then possibly the line has a split. You will need to pull up the air diffuser and make sure all in intact.
This is like yours. http://www.youtube.com/SepticSolutions
So far, so good. I pulled the air pump hose and it is pumping a good volume of air. So the next thing is to check for a clogged diffuser. Being an amateur DIY'er, I have no idea where to find and check the diffuser. I assume it is in the first tank. Should I be able to find it by removing the clean-out cap on the first tank? Thanks for your patience and help.
I pulled the cap from the 1st tank clean-out. Could not see anything but a pipe with about a 6 elbow sticking up above the water line in the tank. Could hear water flowing at a pretty good rate but could not hear air bubbling over the sound of the water flow. Pulled the second cap and it appears that the flowing water might be water draining from the first tank into the second. Turned off the air pump and didn't hear any difference in water flow. (Did not expect to hear any difference.) Not sure where to go from here. Do I need a pro at this point?
Follow the air hose. It cant be too deep. You should have access to the diffuser. Your best bet is to spend the small fee and have the tank emptied. $180 per 1k gallons here on the east. Then you should see all. Your sure thats a chlorine injector right? Any mane on the system any where? Jet air....etc... Tags: septic, tank, effluent, odor, first tank, into tank, about months, from pump, hear bubbling, hear difference, hear water, water flow
Walk-in closets can be great storage spaces or impenetrable messes
Walk-in closets provide considerably more storage space than standard closets, allowing you to hold a full wardrobe with room to spare for dressing. Even with ample space, however, it's important to devote some time and attention to the task of planning how you organize your storage. Get the most out of your walk-in closet in terms of both space and usability by utilizing the space with a variety of storage techniques.
Stackable Tubs
If you need to use your walk-in closet to store clothing items that won't be worn often, such as costume pieces, clothes that need repair or extra-formal dresses, use stackable, lidded plastic tubs. These containers will keep clothing safe and dry and let you keep it out of the way so that it doesn't take up space you need for clothes that you want to have readily on hand. Using stackable containers will also allow you to utilize all available space.
Seasonal Sections
Organize the hanging space in your closet according to season to keep warm weather clothes separate from those you'll wear in cooler weather. This will make things easier when you're looking for outfits, as you won't have to spend time sorting through clothes that aren't seasonally appropriate and would leave you sweating or freezing your fanny off.
Double Layer Hangers
Even a walk-in closet can end up looking cluttered if you don't use the space well. Double-layer hangers allow you to utilize more hanging space by placing a short, lower hanging bar halfway between the closet's bar and the floor. This will allow you to hang two layers of shorter hangables, like suit jackets or button-down shirts, one on top of the other. These devices are sold in department stores and are short enough to let you customize your space according to how many shorter hanging items you have.
Hanging Shoe Racks
Invest in a few hanging shoe racks for your walk-in closet. Sure, you might think there's plenty of room on the floor to lay out your many pairs, but you probably underestimate just how many shoes you own. Also, a hanging rack just looks better and your shoes will be easier to access.
Small Shelves and Drawers
Make sure there's no shortage of small shelf and drawer units in your closet. You'll be amazed just how many little items will end up taking up space and creating clutter if you don't have dedicated space for them. Panties, bras, socks, nylons, belts, jewelry, sashes, scarves, pocketbooks, gloves, leg warmers (hey, they're coming back...right?), swimsuits...and that's just to name a few. See how important it is to have space for them?
High Perimeter Shelves
Many walk-in closets come pre-built with a perimeter shelf just above head level. If yours doesn't have one, consider getting a simple unit installed, even if it's just a department store wire number. Perimeter shelves are the ideal place for storing boxed items, specialty items you don't know what else to do with, or fragile items like shaped hats and wigs.
Scientist-astronaut Harrison H. Jack Schmitt represented the geology profession on NASA's Apollo 17 lunar mission in December 1972. The 12th man to walk on the moon, Schmitt took soil samples, prepared geological maps, collected nearly 240 lbs. of moon rock and discovered orange-colored soil, according to NASA. While the setting in which he worked was unusual, the tasks Dr. Schmitt performed as a geologist were not. As Saddleback College notes, geologists use soil and rock sampling to study the physical aspects of the earth.
Education
According to the website Geology, aspiring geologists need at least a bachelor's degree in geology for entry-level jobs as field or lab assistants. Classes for this four-year degree typically include environmental sciences, mineralogy, physics, calculus, chemistry, earth composition and rock formation, notes the Education Portal website. Geology careers in the federal government require two additional years of study for master's degrees. Those wanting to pursue research or higher-education teaching jobs will need doctoral degrees. Advanced degree students spend time in the field gathering and analyzing data, and they must complete a thesis or a dissertation. High school students contemplating a career in geology can give themselves a head start by taking calculus, chemistry, physics and communications classes. According to Saddleback College, more than 500 colleges and universities offer geology majors.
Qualifications
Geologists often work in teams, notes the Princeton Review, making their ability to work well with others a desired skill. As a geologist, you must be flexible and in good physical shape. An assignment could require weeks or months in the field; another assignment could send you to the lab or office. Solid writing and presentation skills meet the reporting requirements of the job, while familiarity with computers and software apply to the data-analysis side. Fluency in another language helps these creative problem solvers on foreign assignments.
Certification
The American Institute of Professional Geologists (AIPG) offers certification. Applicants need eight years of professional geological work and a bachelor's degree for which no fewer than 36 semester hours of geology were taken. Master's degree applicants need seven years experience; those with Ph.Ds, five years. According to AIPG, each applicant must have three sponsors, two of whom hold professional geologist certification. Sixty continuing education credits must be obtained over a three-year period to maintain certification.
Licensure
The National Association of State Boards of Geology (ASBOG) develops and administers licensure examinations on behalf of state boards of geology. The two, four-hour tests constitute the first step toward obtaining state registration and licensure. According to the Association of Environmental and Engineering Geologists, as of 2010, 29 states belong to the ASBOG but only 31 license geologists. Licensing requirements vary by state. Arizona, for example, requires two exams: an in-training exam for which four years of geology education and/or experience must be obtained, and the ASBOG registration exam. Wisconsin and New Hampshire require a bachelor's degree in geology or a degree earned with at least 30 semester hours in geology, the ASBOG exam and experience working with a professional geologist.
Specialties
Dr. Schmitt worked in the branch of geology known as astrogeology, which studies the composition and structure of planets and moons. Other specialties, according to the department of geological sciences at Ohio University, include petroleum geology, hydrogeology, marine geology, environmental geology, economic geology, engineering geology, geomorphology, paleoclimatology and paleoceanography.
Until recently, when you wanted to burn a DVD from a videotape or from a TV signal, you could only burn the DVD after copying the video to your hard drive. However, Pinnacle Systems' Instant DVD Recorder now lets you bypass the hard drive and burn directly from your video source to DVD. With this inexpensive program and a fast DVD burner, you can cut your copying time in half.
Instructions
1. Connect the camera to the computer and turn both on.
2. Install and open Instant DVD Recorder. Select Let the wizard guide me and click Next.
3. Select your video source (in this case, a camcorder) from the drop-down menu and click Next.
4. Click the Play button to cue up the tape to the place on the tape where you want the recording to start. Use the + and - buttons to adjust the start point one frame at a time. When you've found the start point you want, click Next.
5. Insert a blank recordable DVD. Select your DVD burner from the drop-down menu at the top of the screen. Click Next.
6. Choose a menu style and click Next.
7. Type in the number of minutes of video you wish to record after the start point. Burning will stop automatically when this time runs out, so make sure you've allowed enough time for the whole clip you want to burn. Click Start Recording.
Tips Warnings
You can change the quality of the burned video on the last screen before burning. Lowering the quality will allow you to burn more video onto one DVD.
Just because you can copy a video doesn't mean the copy is legal. Only copy or share your own personal videos.
Introduced in 2002, the Wayne Dalton iDrive is an innovative and compact garage-door-opening system that mounts to the wall directly above your garage door. Unlike traditional chain-, screw- and belt-drive garage door openers, iDrive openers use cables and a powerful motor to lift the door from the bottom. The Wayne Dalton iDrive 3663-372 is operated using a hand-held, keyless entry remote. If the remote for your iDrive opener is malfunctioning, you can reprogram the device and have it working again in minutes.
Instructions
1. Pull down on the Emergency Disconnect Handle to move the garage door opener into the Manual Door Operated position.
2. Locate the red Program button on the front cover of the garage door opener's overhead motor unit.
3. Press and release the Program button to access the garage door opener's programming mode. The overhead motor unit will beep once.
4. Press and hold the largest button on your keyless entry remote to program it to your garage door opener. The overhead motor unit will beep to confirm that the remote has been successfully programmed. Release the button when you hear the beep.
5. Push up on the Emergency Disconnect Handle to move it back into the Motor Operated Door position.
Tips Warnings
Use this same procedure to program or reprogram up to six keyless entry remotes to operate your Wayne Dalton garage door opener.
Allowing more than 30 seconds to elapse between completing Steps 3 and 4 will cause the overhead motor unit to exit the programming mode.
Grease stains are sometimes quite stubborn and hard to remove from suede and other materials. Removing grease stains from suede boots and shoes can be especially difficult because the irregular shape of the footwear may be harder to clean than a flat garment. It may take some trial and error to remove grease stains from suede boots, but in many cases, it can be done.
Instructions
1. Rub cornstarch or talcum powder into the grease stain on your boot. Cover the entire stain with a generous layer of the powder.
2. Wait 15 to 20 minutes for the cornstarch or powder to become completely absorbed by the oily stain.
3. Use a clean, soft toothbrush or a dry washcloth to remove the cornstarch from the treated area of your boot. Work slowly and gently to avoid damaging the suede.
4. Apply more cornstarch if the stain has not disappeared. Larger or heavier grease stains may require several treatments before the stain is successfully lifted.
5. Put a dry paper towel on top of the treated stain and press a clothes iron over the area. Use the steam function to create some moisture, as that may make it easier to remove the grease stain.
6. Dab a citrus oil solvent on the soiled area of your suede boot if your stain remains. Citrus oil solvents are commonly used to clean paintbrushes and are available at your local hardware or home improvement store. Again cover the stain with a paper towel and run a steam iron over it.
Tips Warnings
Citrus solvents may irritate your eyes and skin. Use disposable rubber or latex gloves and masks to reduce the risk of irritation if you are highly sensitive to chemicals.
Ugg boots are a designer style of boot made of sheepskin and originating in Australia. It is also the trademarked name for the UGG boots brand. Generally, Ugg boots can be expensive like most designer fashions. However, some people try to save money by buying fake Ugg boots. Imitation, knock-off Uggs do not look like the real thing. Learn find and identify fake Ugg boots so you are not duped into buying cheap, fake Uggs.
Instructions
1. Research the seller of the Ugg boots. Various Internet websites that specialize in selling designer clothing and fashion, such as eBay and similar auction websites, are known to be places where sellers try to get rid of fake designer knockoffs. On the other hand, Ugg boots being sold in a department store are most likely genuine. However, this rule doesn't apply everywhere, and sometimes you may find real Ugg boots on eBay.
2. Check the price. If the price for the Ugg boots are too good to be true, it most likely is. Ugg boots are known to be quite expensive. Classic Ugg boots start at about $60, though various other Ugg boot fashions and styles can cost up to $200. A cheap pair of Ugg boots may mean they are fake, counterfeit designer goods.
3. Read the Ugg boot tag. If it's made in China, they are genuine Ugg boots.
4. Feel the boot material and inspect the manufacturing. Real Ugg boots are made with high-quality cloth and material, and the stitches and workmanship will be solid. Cheap Ugg boot knockoffs and fake Ugg boots will use cheaper fabric and have loose stitches.
5. Avoid buying Ugg boots from un-reputable third parties. Purchase Ugg boots from reputable sellers and dealers to protect yourself from wasting money on cheap Ugg boots that aren't the real thing. That doesn't mean you have to pay a lot of money. Many reputable dealers sell real Ugg boots through Amazon (link in the Resource section) at prices that are considerably lower than department stores. Also, check garage sales and vintage stores for used Ugg boots at a discount.
Tips Warnings
Only buy Ugg boots from trusted online sources, such as Amazon.com or similar sites in which the sellers are vetted.
Don't waste money on cheap Ugg boots from unreputable dealers.
Few things can affect your cooking more than the type of cookware you use. Calphalon is a brand of cookware that has been around for years, and 1 of their product series is the anodized cookware line. This specially treated cookware cannot be used as you typically would use a cast iron or stainless steel pot or pan. When you follow the usage tips, you can have success cooking with your Calphalon anodized 12-piece cookware set, and it will last you for many long years to come.
Instructions
1. Wash all of your cookware in soap and water before using. Heat your stove top to a lower temperature than expected. In general, high heat should be used for boiling or reducing liquids; medium to medium-high for stir frying, frying and sauteing; and low heat for preparing sauces, warming and simmering.
2. Remove the food to be cooked from the refrigerator at least 10 minutes before cooking. This will help to bring it up to room temperature and prevent it from sticking to the pan. Preheat the pan on the stove top over medium to medium-high heat.
3. Rub 1 tsp. butter all over the inside of the pan, once the rim of the pan is hot to the touch. Add the food to the pan as soon as the butter bubbles. If the butter starts to turn brown, turn the heat down. Pour melted butter out of the pan and place other cooking fat (such as oil) in if you are using that instead. Let the new oil warm for a minute before adding the food. Cook the food as you would over the stove top, using non-sharp utensils.
4. Put all your Calphalon anodized cookware pots and lids into the oven or broiler as usual. All parts are oven safe.
5. Hand wash the cookware after use, using a soap-infused steel wool pad or a scouring powder to get rid of all the residue from the inside of the cookware.
Your thermostat is your connection between the temperature in your home and the furnace. When your thermostat does not function as it should, it will need to be replaced. Once you know change a Honeywell furnace thermostat, your furnace will be heating your home to the correct temperature again.
Instructions
1. Turn the circuit breaker off to the furnace. The circuit breaker is located inside your home's electrical panel.
2. Insert a screwdriver between the thermostat body and the wall. Twist the blade of the screwdriver to remove the thermostat body from the wall mount.
3. Place small pieces of masking tape on each individual wire, and label each wire with the corresponding letter stamped to the back of the thermostat terminals. Loosen the thermostat wire terminals with a screwdriver, and remove the wires from thermostat. Wrap the loose wires around a heavy nail to prevent them from falling into the wall cavity.
4. Use a screwdriver to remove the thermostat mounting plate from the wall.
5. Insert the wires through the new Honeywell thermostat mounting plate. Press the mounting plate flush against the wall, and secure it using the supplied mounting screws.
6. Connect the furnace wires to the new Honeywell furnace thermostat. Make sure you put each wire with its corresponding letter stamped on the back of the thermostat. Tighten each of the thermostat terminals with a screwdriver. Install new batteries into the Honeywell thermostat.
7. Hook the top of the new Honeywell thermostat to the top of the mounting plate. Snap the bottom into place until you hear it lock.
8. Turn the circuit breaker back on to the furnace. Set the thermostat controls according to the manufacturers instructions for your model of thermostat.
Tips Warnings
It is important to label the wires when you are removing them. If the wires are not hooked back up correctly, the furnace will not operate correctly and could cause other parts to fail.
Caused by an inflamed plantar fascia, the tissue that runs between your toes and heel bone, plantar fasciitis is a stabbing or aching heel pain evident when you hop out of bed or after you have been sitting or standing for a long time. Because exercising excessively, wearing shoes without sufficient support or being overweight often triggers plantar fasciitis, you can reduce the occurrence with preventive and restorative home remedies.
Rest and Elevate Feet
Reduce plantar fasciitis pain by taking a break from your regular exercise routine and resting your inflamed arches. When relaxing at home, for example, prop pillows under your feet until they're up at a 45-degree angle. Staying off your feet when pain is at its worst will reduce pressure on the plantar fascia, allowing the tissue to recuperate.
Apply Ice
Soaking or massaging feet with ice can reduce the pain and inflammation associated with plantar fasciitis. Create an ice bath to soak feet for 15 minutes each night by filling a shallow pan or tub with water and enough ice cubes to chill it. For less mess, place ice cubes in a sealed freezer bag and use it to massage your arches and heels with a circular motion or press it against inflamed areas for 15 minutes.
Change Exercise Routines
If you're noticing plantar fasciitis flareups after sessions of aerobic activity such as running or power walking, rest your feet by taking on fewer miles. If the malady becomes a chronic problem even after you've modified your workout routine, however, you may wish to switch to a lower-impact exercise such as swimming or biking.
Pamper Your Arches
Before exercising, warm up ligaments to reduce tension that can lead to plantar fasciitis. Pull toes back toward you to properly stretch your arch; perform calf stretches by keeping feet flat on the floor and leaning slowly toward the wall; or roll a tennis ball under your arch. Then, keep feet cushioned by wearing shoes that feature sturdy arch support, heel cups or cushioned mid soles to absorb the shock and reduce the occurrence of plantar fasciitis. If your shoes do not have adequate support, you can buy over-the-counter arch supports or heel cups. Avoid going barefoot for walking, running or floor exercise.
Alter Eating Habits
Boost your body's ability to fight inflammation by eating foods with anti-inflammatory Omega-3 fatty acids such as halibut, flax seed, salmon, tofu and walnuts. Drinking fresh mint or ginger tea can also reduce the pain of plantar fasciitis. Create your own brew by boiling one-quarter cup of mint leaves or three slices of fresh, peeled ginger in 2 cups of water for 10 minutes and adding honey for sweetness, if desired. Better eating habits can also help you keep weight down to reduce stress on the plantar fascia.
Chest wall pain, known medically as costochondritis, is an inflammatory condition that affects many people and is one of the most common causes of chest pain. Although costochondritis can affect anyone at any time, women and men over the age of 40 are most susceptible. Besides chest wall pain, costochondritis may also be referred to as costosternal syndrome or costosternal chondrodynia.
Costochondritis occurs where the ribs meet the sternum
Features
The pain with costochondritis can be scary and can even mimic more serious conditions, like heart attack. The most common type is sharp pain in the costosternal joints. This pain is most prevalent on the left side of the chest, but it may affect either side. There may also be an aching or gnawing pain. Adults must first be checked for heart-related causes and have those completely ruled out before costochondritis can be diagnosed, since the symptoms and pain can be very similar.
Effects
When you have costochondritis, it may be painful or even difficult to breathe, especially when taking deep breaths. You may also experience pain when you cough. Since infectious diseases can cause it and can also cause coughing, this can be a double-edged sword for many sufferers. All types of infectious diseases-- viral, bacterial and fungal--can cause Costochondritis, but to different degrees. Viral infections most often cause Costochondritis, while bacterial infections usually happen only after surgery and fungal infections are rarely the cause.
Identification
The pain is sometimes alarming and often causes sufferers to seek medical attention. When you seek medical attention for chest pain and your EKG and chest X-rays appear normal, your doctor may then perform a simple test to check for Costochondritis. This test takes only seconds and is performed by pressing on the patient's sternum (the bone in the middle of your chest that connects with your ribs).
Time Frame
Costochondritis is not a medical emergency and symptoms are easily treated with over-the-counter anti-inflammatory medications, like Ibuprofen, until the condition resolves on its own, usually within a few days. Most of the time there is no need to see a doctor unless you have other specific concerns or symptoms that you think could point to another diagnosis. This type of pain accompanied by profuse sweating, fainting or that spread to other areas, like the neck or jaw, warrants a trip to the emergency room.
Considerations
Costochondritis can also be confused with a more serious, reoccurring condition called Tietze Syndrome. Tietze Syndrome is associated with sudden pain that also affects the shoulder and/or arm and swelling. Also, while Costochondritis lasts only a few days, Tietze syndrome usually lasts a few weeks. Any Costochondritis lasting more than a few days should be evaluated by a doctor and the diagnosis of Tietze syndrome should be investigated.
We moved two weeks ago and I've noticed a significant mouse problem. I didn't see it at first; but now that I'm on high-alert, I'm seeing droppings in several locations. The story: I first noticed that a bag of bread which was left on the counter had a hole in it on Tuesday. Then I started examining the kitchen carefully. There were droppings in the cabinets along the outer wall of the house. I freaked when I saw droppings in the fridge. But I've since discovered that there were numerous droppings on top of the fridge, including where the door seals. I think that the droppings inside fell in when the door was opened. On Wednesday, I explored the attic and found several tunnels and nesting areas. Or what I think are nesting areas. These are areas where there is a pile of feces and some urine. The house was never really vacant. The sellers were clearing out for a couple weeks; I was told they had Goodwill pick up the furniture the day before settlement. The neighbor recently told me that they had mice and traps out for years. However, we had never seen any traps set during our visits to the property. So I do not know if they were actively working on the mice issues. Thursday night, I killed three mice; both attic traps were sprung and one under the sink. The trap above the fridge, in another cabinet along the outer wall, and the trap along the floor/under the cabinet were not sprung -- the traps in the open are actually electronic traps because I have two young children. Friday night, we had three traps in the attic, only one killed a mouse. Two traps were placed in the basement, with one killing a mouse. None of the kitchen traps were visited by mice. So five dead in two nights. I'm only seeing mouse feces. We don't hear them. The neighbor told us that that he uses poison and sonic deterrents in his shed. I should add that in the short time that we've been here, we found two dead mice in the back yard, which I now presume were from the neighbor's poison. I'm really freaked out though because I saw feces around my toddler's toys. So this house has a long-standing problem with mice. We will be removing that attic insulation. We will be un-finishing the partially-finished basement. We will be sealing holes in the attic -- I see a large one where the A/C line enters but will inspect more carefully when the insulation is removed. -- We will continue to have traps set. We will try to remove vegetation near the house; but it will be hard because the previous owners spent a lot of time gardening around the house. We'll do our best to seal the attached garage too. We've packed all our food into giant plastic storage bins; though, there is no evidence of mice in the pantry. What else should I be doing? And when should I be doing what? (Besides as much as quickly as possible?) I know this is a do it yourself forum, but I have to ask, is there any professional that I could go to for help? I find the concept of removing mouse infested attic insulation very unpleasant. But the pest control people I've spoken to so far only put out poison and traps; they'll also seal up the attic but won't remove the insulation... and none has bothered to treat our problem as anything unique or distinct. They provide rates and quotes as if I'm buying an item from a catalog. Finally, how dangerous would removing the attic insulation be to people living in the house? I know that there are disease concerns when the nests are disturbed and dust becomes airborne. I have a 5m old and a 2yr old whose safety are highest priority. Would they have to spend one or two nights elsewhere?
To remove insul by the book, the attic access should be sealed while workers are bagging it up. Exhaust fan in attic vent to discharge air to exterior. Hopefully the bags can be dropped out of an attic window/vent rather than carried through the house. Vacuuming the attic floor should be accomplished with equipment utilizing a hepa filter and again hopefully vented to exterior; sometimes the area is lightly dampened prior to vacuuming. Obviously the procedure will be considerably more expensive than a simple removal. It’s your call; I don’t see anyone in my travels going to these lengths. This level of removal and clean-up would require someone who is trained and specializes in this. If you want to eliminate a chronic mouse infestation with traps than you need a lot of traps-2 to 3 dozen snap traps if that’s the kind of trap you like. Check out the “tin-cat” multiple mouse traps that catches them alive. Good to use in places where you can’t check snap traps conveniently. I like the kind that you DO NOT have to wind up. This kind utilizes a counter-balance ramp idea. When sealing the house cracks and crevices, you should especially focus on the foundation and ground level. There could be openings underground where water pipes, sewage pipes, conduit, etc enter/exit. The neighbors sonic devices are useless-use your money in a more productive direction. Rodenticide in outbuildings is a good idea. You can also buy exterior bait stations and rodenticide to use along exterior perimeter of house in various locations. I would do that as I don’t doubt there are a lot of mice outside, too. I rarely set traps for mice since coming back to check them regularly would be time and cost prohibitive. I do advise the homeowner on trapping though. If I’m hired I use rodenticide and yes sometimes the rodents die inside and cause an odor. I use rodenticide in my house and buildings and sometimes it happens. I’d rather have dead mice than live mice. If you can catch a bunch in traps, then later on you could place rodenticide in safe places to kill the occasional invader. Using rodenticide now may kill a lot of mice at once which would increase the likelihood of odor issues. The rodent situation you are experiencing is common, especially after real estate transactions. I also would quote price and service over the phone-as distasteful as the situation is, it doesn’t merit a sales call if one is a small business or especially one man operation. The big companies will send a salesman first; then a service tech. Catch/kill as many mice as possible before disturbing the attic as they will flee that area. As far as vacating the house during removal-if disease/organisms infiltrate the living space they will still be present when you return. Keep us posted.
I climbed through the unfloored region of the attic today. The nesting is significant. I'm no expert; but it looks really bad to me. Our easy to access traps near the attic access (d-con covered snap traps) have stopped catching the mice. Having examined up there more carefully today, I can see why. The mice are using the A/C lines and nesting right along the wall, which is not easy access. It's also a difficult place for us to be setting traps. If one climbs into the attic, one is guaranteed to be coming in contact with mouse feces, which means removing clothing (possibly showering) upon coming down. It might sound a bit extreme, but with a 5month old who chews everything and burrows her head on clothing, we need to follow the more extreme recommendations. Our working theory is that there are two mice colonies. The attic mice are most likely nesting in the attic and searching for food outside (I think). Another group of mice are coming into the basement, either through the garage and into the house, directly in through other holes or through the uncovered sump pump. The basement mice are the ones who are exploring our kitchen. But even there, they do not seem too interested. We're at the point where we'll pay for someone to clean the attic. -- We'll pay whatever the cost. It's truly disgusting and far beyond our abilities with so many other projects, young children and jobs. -- We're going to completely un-finish the partially finished basement and try to keep those mice under control ourselves. I'll look at those tin-cat traps for the attic nest area. I don't really care if the mice are killed. I want as many gone as quickly and easily as possible. I'd like to reduce the climb through the attic as much as possible. Any other trap suggestions?
Sounds like you have good strategies. I agree with cleaning out the attic and basement. It will be healthier and you will have peace of mind. I feel bad that you’re going through this when you didn’t cause it. Not to mention the other priorities that life has for you. As far as traps, I can’t think of any others right now, but I will think more over the next days. Another product that is helpful in sealing, plugging, etc is “Stuff-it”. It is a pliable copper mesh that rodents won’t chew through and won’t rust. When you search for it on internet, look for copper stuff-it, as there is a computer program called stuff-it that shows up first. Use multiple baits for the snap traps and inside the tin cats. Bacon is good. Peanut butter, but first tie a small piece of cotton onto trap with dental floss, then smear pnut butter on the cotton. When they lick it, they get frustrated so they bite/tug it. Chocolate, lemon drops/flavor are popular as baits. Keep us posted;
Once again, thank you for the great advice! It took me awhile to find a pest control company that would take care of removing the attic insulation. They generally don't treat for mice at this time of year -- I don't know why -- but they'll remove the insulation at any time of year. They do suggest getting rid of as many mice as possible first. It also took me several calls to pest control companies to find someone who appreciated the situation as well as PAbugman. I think the low point was when one company went through their methods for dealing with mice, quoted me a price, then added Oh, but we won't go into the attic because it's not floored, after I had explained my observations of mouse activity up there. We removed some of the walls on the finished side of the basement. And so far no evidence of mice (moisture, but no mice). However, I did see some droppings around the edges of a ceiling light. I'm wondering and worrying about the rest of the house now too. I peeked down a hole in the upstairs closet floor where they failed to seal around the A/C conduit. There were a couple mouse droppings. This location is not below the nests in the attic, nor is it above the ones in the basement. In fact, it's probably as far away as one can get in the house. Should I worry about what's behind the walls? I was under the impression that if disturbed, the rodent filth is a health risk; so it should be ok as is. We will need to take precautions during renovations if we encounter droppings. But I don't need to start opening up walls now, right? Finally, I should add that I did find a small nest in the kitchen area tonight. I'm pretty sure that we killed that resident the first night of traps. The nest was along the bottom, back edge of cabinet which is full of drawers. I never looked behind the drawers when I cleaned prior to move-in. It consisted of shredded napkins, which I assume fell out of the drawers, a cracker and a powdered drink packet. All items were from the previous owners of the home. I can't help wondering where else there might be nests, which gets back to my concerns about the walls.
I know this thread is a few weeks old, but I wanted to add that depending on the age of the house you may need to have the insulation tested for asbestos. Basically if it's over 25 years old that could be a problem. If it's hot, it WILL be more expensive and much more time consuming to have removed. If you bought the house then you might have some grounds to claim against the previous owners. This is very serious.
Update: After realizing that there were more mice and a long-standing problem that I wasn't qualified to tackle, I contacted a local pest control company who has been setting traps and poison. He's been out to my house twice and a third visit is scheduled. I was impressed that he used the poison bait to determine where the mice are currently active. I hadn't thought of that. As part of a project to correct an issue with basement moisture, we pulled off the wood paneling that the former owners installed, finding feces and tunnels through some insulation at the top of the walls. The holes are being patched with copper stuff it and we are removing the gardens that were planted along the house. I had another company that does the clean-up visit for a quote and am still waiting to hear back the cost. He said that the attic was bad, but he is used to seeing worse. -- That being said, our disorganization from the move and associated mess has been compared to hoarders, specifically, no where near as bad. However, I think my level of cleanliness and comfort are a little different from what they usually see. -- The insulation in 1/3-1/2 of the main attic needs to be replaced. There was some evidence of activity on the other side of the attic, but did not appear to be significant. However, considering the attic is not floored and the man did not attempt to carefully examine the whole area, I'm not comfortable with leaving the other half of the attic insulation in place. The second attic, which is only above the garage and den area showed minimal signs of activity, which we already knew. It happens to be the only location in the house that we saw a live mouse as well. And while I have not seen any nests up there myself, I did see items left behind by the sellers that looked to have been eaten by mice. I'll be receiving a quote for them to disinfect the attic insulation with some form of spray, leaving it for us to remove ourselves, as well as a quote for them to remove the insulation. With regards to the feces in the basement, he said we could just spray with a bleach solution before pulling down the ceiling, which we were contemplating doing in a few locations for other reasons. There are only a few areas with a concentration of feces. And of course, to use masks that are appropriately rated. Thanks for the heads up regarding the asbestos insulation. The house is 44yrs old. I had heard concerns about asbestos insulation in attics from older houses. -- We actually have asbestos siding. -- There was a type of insulation that was contaminated by asbestos, right? However, I failed to follow through with my research assuming that the company whose hired to remove the insulation would test or handle it if necessary. Any advice on the matter would be appreciated, especially since I am contemplating replacing the insulation in the second attic ourselves. Once we have the final cost of clean-up, I will be politely contacting the sellers first. Then, I think I am prepared for a law-suit. My grounds are based upon the fact that they lied on the sellers disclosure regarding the presence of pests and of damage from pests. Plus, financial issues aside, they put us and especially my two young children (25months and 5months) in a dangerous situation; I am disinfecting somewhere in the kitchen or around their toys nightly. (Or I was, we haven't seen new feces in the kitchen for a few days; I'm even daring to put things back in the cabinets.)
Glad you’re making progress. Are you also baiting the exterior perimeter? Take pictures and save evidence. The things left in the attic by previous owners that was eaten-can you save that? It could lend support to the fact that the problem was an existing condition. The disclosure forms are for disclosing what they knew about the house; if they can demonstrate that they didn’t know about it, then they may win. If you can demonstrate that a reasonable and prudent person would have known, then you have a case. Don’t take this as anything like the final word, just a reflection on the “second hand” dialogues that I’ve heard and experienced being in the pest control industry.
We've been working on several aspects of the clean-up and prevention. The house has been sealed with the exception of a hole at a juncture of the roof which will be taken care of by the company cleaning our attic. Vegetation removed from outside, garage door repaired, etc. We have had a few droppings in the house and had to continue baiting outside traps. We finally took the plunge to tackle behind the refridgerator this weekend. It's not an easy task. The fridge fits into the hole so tightly that pressure fit isn't much of an exaggeration; we rocked it forward and back, forward and back, for almost an hour. I knew the mice were back there because I cleaned the top of the fridge and below it (to some extent). I was not prepared for the droppings and urine throughout the back of the fridge. And when we removed the panels to get a better view, it looked hopeless. The urine has been puddling in the drop tray; it gets progressively darker with the slope until it's brown. The feces have gone through several wet-dry cycles. And there are feces everywhere, not just the un-removeable tray... I am certain there must be some in areas I cannot see yet. I've read that one can clean droppings from inside fridges, around the motors and coils. I'm not convinced. Those giving the advice don't clarify the extent of the cleaning. But then, if a vacuum and bleach is good enough for a few droppings, why shouldn't I be able to clean it? ... Or will I have no hope of actually reaching all of the areas that the mice have touched? And am I fiddling with fridge components best left alone? Other thoughts weighing on my mind. If we do attempt to clean this fridge, checking behind it for returning mice or setting traps behind it is not realistic; it'll take an hour or more to move out, and it scratches the floor (engineered hardwood). Based on the feces that I've found over the last few months, behind the fridge is where the mice are going when they come into the living area of the house. A kitchen remodel is on the 5-10yr wishlist; but its not practical at this time with two helpful toddlers, nor financially possible. The fridge is probably 10yrs old and probably has had a leak in the water/ice dispenser line, based on the water damage to the floor. However, it appears fully functional. We do have a back-up fridge that we could use; my old apartment fridge went to my mother's basement but I can borrow a trailer to move it here next weekend. It would be sufficient for our needs now, but maybe not when the kids are older, especially not when I have teenage boys. It's 6yrs old. And should last until we can remodel the kitchen. So I'm tempted to get rid of the infested fridge. I'd appreciate comments, especially from anyone who has cleaned out the insides of a Kenmore 26 side-by-side refridgerator. Thanks!
Tags: moved, mouse, infestation, help, attic insulation, pest control, previous owners, remove insulation, snap traps, that could, that there, setting traps, that they, traps were
I have a older servel refrigerator that is not cooling properly. It takes several days to drop the inside temp to 40 degrees. Is this normal. I have been told to turn it upside down. What does this do? How long do I need to leave it this way? Can I immediately light it back up or do I need to let it set for a while? If so, how long?
With all due respect, I would recommend turning the refrigerator on its side, placing it in a pickup truck and taking it to the dump. Servel was paying $100 several years back and may still be doing so towards getting rid of these old elephants. A family in our area was asphyxiated, all but for a little girl who is brain damaged, when a Servel refrigerator gave off CO. If you must use it.,put it on an outside porch so that there is no question about good ventilation. Especially one that's malfunctioning. JMHO simonmeridew
Hello! Don't get rid of your SERVEL - KEEP IT! These things are NOT dangerous, as many have said! SERVEL made over 3 million of these units, and, to date, around 60 people have died from carbon monoxide poisoning that their SERVEL gave off, all because they failed to maintain it like the instructions stated. If you maintain it properly, a SERVEL will last for decades with little or no problems, and you won't die from using it. Many people think their SERVEL cannot be repaired. NOT SO! There are several places to get them serviced, but THE BEST places are: 1. Maine Gas Refrigarator Service . Run by a wonderful older man by the name of Art Gauthier, Maine Gas Refrigerator Service has parts and manuals for the SERVEL refrigerators, and can repair and recharge every model that SERVEL made. 2. Epps' Gas Refrigerator Service. Operated by Dale Eppley, who trained under Mr. Gauthier, Epps' Refrigerator Service is located in Columbus, Ohio (which is a little closer than Maine for most people). He does not have a website, but you can call him at: (zzz) xxx-xxxx. xxxxxxxxxxx Both of these companies do EXCELLENT work, and do not charge you an arm and a leg to do it. They won't charge you fro repairs you don't really need! My SERVEL is on it's way to xxxxxxxxxxx (I live in Oklahoma) for repair. While it's gone, I am refinishing the case and will install new insulation when it returns. I am surprising my wife with a new SERVEL for her birthday/Christmas present! Once Dale gets through with it, we'll have it for the rest of our lives (we plan to leave it to the kids, along with our CHAMBERS stove). SO - KEEP THAT SERVEL GOING! =========== Forums Monitors Note: Thread Edited: Ads, Advertisements, Contact Methods and or Solicitations are not allowed within the forums nor topics. Read the No Ads-No Advertisements sticky note in every forum. Web Site Host Forums Monitor