I have aquired a whirlpool imperial series washer model LSN1000JQ1. It fills washes drains no problem but when it goes into spin it jerks a few times like it canґt keep up. After it does this a few times it will go up to full speed spin. Could the clutch be going or the trans going or the tube brakes grabbing when there not supposed to. I have included a video Of the machine in spin. It goes into spin around the 2:30 mark any ideas. Tilt washer back against wall and look under it. About 6nches up around cabinet see if there is a streak of oil. If there you need a gearcase top seal, clutch and drive coupler. The bottom of the trans seams to be covered in oil. The middle on what looks like a shaft or bearing there is a yellow like oil that is fresh. On the rest of the trans is old oil that appears to have been on there. Nothing on the inside of the metal washing housing. http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/9934/photo0025f.jpg You need the parts I said. So I need Transmission P/N 3360629 Clutch P/N 285785 Motor Coupler P/N 285753A Repair Manual P/N 4313896 Any gaskets or seals? Does the trans ship with oil in it or do I need to get that as well? Gearcase comes with oil, can be rebuilt (google whirlpool gearcase repair) no gaskets or seals needed Well I went ahead and ordered the parts. Had to wait for funds to become available.Also I want to paint the machine. The top is white but the rest is beige type color and stained. I want to paint it red but can't find red appliance paint. Would a oil based gloss spray paint work? Don't know anything about paint but don't think spray paint would stick. Ok it appears to work fine no issues during the wash spin. The rinse spin the tub seams to shake allot even if there's nothing in it. But right now after 1 load it appears to be fixed. Washer basket and tub always shake on your's say what? (random blabber to comply with character limit) it's normal ( extra characters)
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My phone service died about a week ago. (It died gradually over a couple of days.) After testing, I discovered the problem was inside the house, and not the phone company's responsibility. (FYI. The house was built in 1937. It has 5 jacks to 5 different rooms the house. There's just telephone service -- no cable TV, no modems, no DSL, no dialup internet.) I've gotten this far in troubleshooting: I've now got one line from the NID running into the house (in the basement, where it enters the house). I hooked up one jack to test this line and it works. However, I'm having trouble with the next step. What I have done so far: I tried hooking up the outside line into a new junction box -- and then hooked up my test line (not a prexisting jack) to the junction box. This did not work, even though it should have worked. I suspect my trouble lies in using the junction boxes I purchased at Home Depot. They're $8, made by RCA, are 3 inches by 2 inches, and have 2 terminal screws for each R-Y-G-B, enabling 4 connections per color. They are pretty standard, I believe. (I removed the original junction box, thinking this would be a good time to update to a new one.) What could I have done wrong in hooking up the junction box? (I did match the colors correctly.) This is what I did: I slipped the wires (the directions said not to remove the casing) into the slots in the box and tightened the screws. What I'm guessing is not working is the connection between the wire and the box. The screw in the junction box is supposed to crimp down the wire on the metal plate underneath the screw, enabling it to conduct to another wire crimped to the same plate -- correct? Could it be that the junction box is defective? Is there a better junction box to use? Or have I done something wrong? Thank for your help! First of all, the type of junction box you are using is not for external use. And, more importantly, is not for use as an NID. This has be done by your Phone Company. So, you need to hook everything back up to your old NID. Now, this doesn't mean you can't have a junction, you just don't want to use that type outside (I'm pretty sure I know which one you are using, I may be wrong though, if you are using an external type, then you are ok.) But even if you are using an external type, you still cannot connect the incoming line directly to it, the phone company must make this connection for you, on an approved device (which it probably is not approved for Demarcation.) Sorry for the bad news, but that's just the way it works with Ma Bell. Thanks Brandon for your thoughts. Two clarifications: 1) The new junction box I'm trying to use is being used inside. 2) The new junction box is after the NID. I'm not trying to use it as an NID. The NID, which is outside, connects to a wire which runs through the wall into the basement. It is that wire I want to connect to a junction box, so I can branch out to several different phone jacks throught the house. Since I posted the original problem, I've been troubleshooting again. This time, in place of the new junction box, I hooked up the old junction box (it's very old, from the looks of it), and, believe it or not, everything works -- all phones, all jacks. What I still don't understand is why the new junction box didn't work. Maybe I was hooking it up wrong, or maybe it is defective. Ok, now when I re-read your post I understand. I just misread the first time. If I am thinking of the right box, then you probably need to strip the wires before inserting them into the slots. This particular box doesn't actually have anything that crimps the wire, it similar to a punch block, it has sharp metal edges that are supposed to slice open the insulation and contact the wires inside. Well, needless to say, sometimes it doesn't make good contact. So just strip your wires first, then try inserting them. Of course, the easiest way to test is to use a cordless phone that connected to a phone jack and see if you get dial-tone when you make your connections. If all else fails, just connect all your wires together and use the junction box to hold them in place. Good luck! tommyreno: I wonder if you cleared your trouble?My preference has been to have customers pull in-lines to nid-connect there to screw tmns.-if further trouble it can be easier to lift 1@time while @ nid to test/isolate which one.I also think I know which junction block you were attempting to use-possibly w/older home and older wire the screw-tmns. arent biting thru insulation(thicker on older wiring).If wires arent long enough to reach nid I understand the need for junction-so I want to say there has hardly ever been anything wrong w/old-faishon strip it and connect under screw/nut terminals.I either wire(cut) to punch-block or will splice w/gel-filled connectors if new install or necessary replacement.Keep posted if your trouble returns-I believe I could assist and think ohmmeter! ok, unless you have multiple phone lines to your house, you only need to focus on (1) pair of wires, red green. Now, if the phone company has done any re-wiring, you might see striped wires (cat 5 cable, with (4) pairs = 8 wires) which the common pair for the primary line is the blue pair (blue with white stripe white with blue stripe), secondary pair is the orange. I would simply take a plain, simple 'wall biscuit' phone jack, tie into the line that's bringing service from your outside telelphone company box to your basement, red to red, green to green, or blue w/white stripe to red, white w/blue stripe to green (verifing the colors used outside first), and simply plug a phone into that jack. If you still don't have dial tone, then there's your problem; the line from the outside is bad, possibly chewed thru by a rodent of some sort or dog. At that point, if you have a stupid long phone cord, cut the ends off, strip the jacketing, red to red, green to green at the box, and use the phone cord to tie into your block from home depot. make certain you've stripped only the tips of the wire (the service doesn't conduct thru the insulation jacket) but make certain the lines are touching other color lines, just all the greens are touching, and all the reds are touching, but the reds greens are not touching eachother. if your phones work throughout the house, then run back to the hardware store to either buy enough phone wire, or call the phone company. Just be careful if you do it yourself, the wires inside aren't very thich and they don't take a lot of punishment from kinks or knots, you can break the wires relatively easily which you'll figure this out when you try to strip the jacketing off the individual lines (if you want a easy cheat, use a zippo lighter and burn the jacketing off) good luck
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Hey guys I lost my walbro carb adjusting tool for the d style adjustment screws does anybody know where I can get another one my local supply house says they don't sell them anymore and I can't find one anywhere. Thanks guys I once faced the dilemma of making a one-time adjustment and didn't have the tool. I selected a copper crimp terminal that fit the diameter of the screw head and hammed one side flat so it gripped. Got me through the project. You could fashion a more permanent re-useable one from a nut driver if you need it often and there really is no source for the proper tool. I don't know the size of that screw, but on a different carb, some flatten the side of a spent .22 cartridge and say it works well. yeah it is the small walbro diapham carbs HDA-290 for a bunch of hand vibe plate tampers. I guess I will have to fashion a permanent solution. I will give the spent .22 a try If you can find a Snap On dealer or Mac or Matco, they can usually get or have the oddball, dealer only stuff. IT WILL NOT be cheap, but you will have exactly what you need. Good luck. BTW I too had a Walbro issue and used a solderless crimp connector, slide type ( flat blade) and worked pretty well....... I used the plastic part to drive on the stud and the blade I used as a finger grip. thanks Rockytree I will call my Snap-on guy and see what he has got
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Is it legal to secure two Romex cables through one connector? Can Romex be stapled on top of another? Thanks Bill If the connector is listed for multiple cables it will state the sizes and number on the packaging. If the staple is listed for multiple cables, see above, you can staple 2 flat cables flat to the stud. The cables cannot be stapled on edge. Depends on connector size and romex size. I have seen 2 pair of 12/2 romex coming in through one connector (can't recall if it was 1/2 or not). And yes you can staple multiple pairs under one staple. Make sure you have the correct length staple and don't overdrive it, no one is going to be yanking on them Originally Posted by chopnhack Depends on connector size and romex size. I have seen 2 pair of 12/2 romex coming in through one connector (can't recall if it was 1/2 or not). And yes you can staple multiple pairs under one staple. Make sure you have the correct length staple and don't overdrive it, no one is going to be yanking on them No, as pcboss stated, it depends on the U.L. listing. What we typically think of as a 3/8 romex connector that fits in a 7/8 Dia hole (1/2 K.O.) is generally not listed for more than ONE NM cable. There are however, duplex connectors that are U.L. listed to accept TWO NM cables and these connectors also fit one 1/2 K.O. As far as the staples, regardless of length, I haven't seen a cable staple that was U.L. listed for more than ONE NM cable, but I am not saying there aren't some out there. I'd be interested in seeing one that is listed for more than one cable. By the way, 2 pair of 12-2 romex cables would be 4 romex cables. Originally Posted by CasualJoe I'd be interested in seeing one that is listed for more than one cable. By the way, 2 pair of 12-2 romex cables would be 4 romex cables. Halex this is a 3/8 connector rate for 2 cables When I said two pair, I didn't mean 4 cables, only 2 complete 12/2 cables. I will have to go check what I was looking at today. It had multiple 12/2 romex running through it. The knockouts were no bigger than 1/2, but I'm pretty sure I saw a few 2x cables run through some clamp style connectors. CJ, peruse this link. Check the SN 150 listing. Briscon Products - STAPLES In my experience most NM connectors are good for 2 flat 14-2 or 12-2 NM cables. Only one round cable per connector. Again the package needs to be checked. Originally Posted by chopnhack Halex this is a 3/8 connector rate for 2 cables When I said two pair, I didn't mean 4 cables, only 2 complete 12/2 cables. I will have to go check what I was looking at today. It had multiple 12/2 romex running through it. The knockouts were no bigger than 1/2, but I'm pretty sure I saw a few 2x cables run through some clamp style connectors. Well, I guess I have to stand corrected. It just goes to show you how things change every day. Many thanks to everyone who posted to answers my question. I'll check the connector's rating Also, staple length Bill Originally Posted by pcboss CJ, peruse this link. Check the SN 150 listing. Briscon Products - STAPLES In my experience most NM connectors are good for 2 flat 14-2 or 12-2 NM cables. Only one round cable per connector. Again the package needs to be checked. I suppose we all can learn something new every day. I think I'll pass this info along to a few friends who do residential work. Originally Posted by CasualJoe Well, I guess I have to stand corrected. It just goes to show you how things change every day. No need, you spoke from your experience as did I. Our experiences are different, not wrong. You are speaking to UL safety ratings, which is true. I was speaking from what I have seen done, not UL approved, but not necessarily unsafe either. Originally Posted by chopnhack No need, you spoke from your experience as did I. Our experiences are different, not wrong. You are speaking to UL safety ratings, which is true. I was speaking from what I have seen done, not UL approved, but not necessarily unsafe either. Well, I have seen it too, but many years ago and I really don't think back then it was technically U.L. approved, but inspectors accepted it. Over the years I think the quality and education of inspectors has increased tremendously in most areas just like materials and approvals have also changed, it's actually not an easy thing to keep up with. Today you better know your codes and materials or you won't make it through a tough inspection. True, true, mostly for insurance reasons. Manufacturers not wanting to pay out in case of an accident, or insurance companies not wanting to payout if they can prove a non-UL occurrence linked with the loss. I can't imagine how many homes and business around the US have code violations and non-UL approved methods/products in them w/o incident. Not saying its correct nor should we lower our standards just that its commonplace.
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Wondering if these feeders are hard to install- worth it. i have a manual valve i turn to add water when i usually blow down the boiler 1-2x a month. pretty much thats the only time it needs extra water. It depends upon your skill at fitting pipe. I don't mean to be flippant but that really is the answer. It also depends upon what type of feeder you use as some are electric (solenoid) valves actuated by the low water cutoff and some are completely mechanical and use a float to determine the water level in the boiler. The float type need to be pretty carefully connected so that the float actuates the valve within the specific water limits of the boiler. Threaded pipe is going to be more difficult for someone that is not used to working with thread pipe than would be an installation using soldered copper tube and threaded adapters. For someone adept with both kinds of piping it is a toss up. My thoughts are that if your system uses as little water as you state and you are diligent in checking the low water cutoff along with proper blowdown then you don't really need the automatic feeder. i'm planning on installing a MCDONNELL MILLER AUTO WATER FEEDER, WF2-U-24. Instruction says to install on horizontal pipe. does that really matter- wont work installed vertically? You need to follow the instructions. If they say on a horizontal pipe you need to install it on a horizontal pipe. Why would the manufacturer try to make it harder to install, if they worked on both horizontal or vertical. There is a reason for their statement. Remember this feeder will not take the place of maintaining water level. The feeder is for emergency use, when you are not around to check the water level and the boiler needs water. Manually maintain water level at the manufacturer specified level. That is where the boiler works most efficienctly. This is a great and informative site. I like to see it thriving.Perhaps I can be of assistance.
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How do I get rid of silverfish and what are they doing in my bedroom? I find them on the ceiling in my bedroom at night. I know they like warm areas and I guess they're nocturnal, but my bedroom - yuck! Every now and then I'll see one in the bathtub which makes more sense to me. I hear boric acid is good, but what do I do? Just sprinkle it on my floor. Help! I feel your pain!!! I just recently found silverfish in my kitchen , hate them bugs. Im 8 months pregnant and can't use any chemicals that would be harmful to the baby, so I whent on a hunt and found a spray called Bug-B-Gone. It's safe to use around kids, pets and even food that is left out. It is made from Orange peels( you would think it smells good , but the smell is real bad) it works real good not just on silverfish but on other bugs as well. I found it at a place called Henry's Market ( a natural health food store) here in California. They might have a web-site, so go on a search. Good luck to you and kill them bugs dead. P.S My research also led me to learn that Neem oil works on them bugs too.It is safe, made from a Tree called Neem very well known in India. Silverfish and firebrats survive on glue, wallpaper paste, paper, bookbindings, photos, clothing starch, and fabrics like cotton, linen, rayon, grain products like cereal and flour, leather, and dead insects. Silverfish like cool, damp places like in the basement, bathroom, or laundryroom, and are sometimes found in sinks and bathtubs. Firebrats like hot, humid places like in the attic, near the furnace, fireplace, heat pipes. Both silverfish and firebrats have flat, elongated bodies 1/3 to 3/4 inch long. They are broad near the head and taper toward the rear. They are fragile and have no wings. They have antennae on the head and three appendages on the rear. Some people call these insects bristletails. The silverfish adult is about 1/2 inch long with a uniform silvery or pearl-gray color, whereas the four-lined silverfish is about 5/8 inch long and the back displays four dark lines the length of the body. The gray silverfish is about 3/4 inch long and uniform light to dark gray. The firebrat is about 1/2 inch long, grayish and mottled with spots and bands of dark scales. Young resemble the adults except they are smaller. Eggs are whitish, oval and about 1/32 inch long. Silverfish and firebrats are active at night, but can be seen if they are disturbed in their hiding place. Sanitation is important to control populations, but will not completely reduce population because they often live inside walls, insulation, books and papers, and places that you can not see. Eliminating paper clutter and old food stuffs will help. Eliminate moisture problems, reduce humidity in home with a dehumidifier, and improve ventilation with fans. Lighting dark, sheltered areas may force these insects to move to new sites where they can be controlled more easily. Treatments need to be applied in cracks, crevices, behind baseboards, and wood trim, around water pipes, in and behind furniture, in closets and attics. Huge populations in wall voids will require drilling holes in wall. Any treatment will not immediately eliminate bristletails, because they must come in contact with insecticide. There are many insecticides labelled for control of silverfish and firebrats (bristletails). Not all insecticides are available in all areas. A residual spray which leaves a residue is best. Dusts, including boric acid, can be puffed in wall voids, crawl spaces, attics, and hard to reach areas. Before using any insecticide, always read the label, follow directions and safety precautions. If problem is persistent, then it is best to contact a licensed, professional exterminator. Silverfish are a pest, no doubt about it. And yes, they are icky and hard to get rid of. The method that works best not only for getting rid of them, but keeping them from coming back or ever even showing up in the first place is sanitation. Keep things picked up. These critters can go for up to a year without food and months without water. The eat almost anything too. They eat paper, book glue, paper sizing (the stuff that makes magazine paper shiny), cotton, silk, linen any food speck you may have dropped. They will even eat the glue used to stick labels to cans and cleaning products a wallpaper to walls. So, pick up and clean up. Get clothes off the floor, get papers, books etc. into plastic tubs w/tight fitting lids. Pick up anything with a label and put it into the same type of container. After all is picked up start vacuuming or sweeping and keep up on it. Once the place is clean, make sure it is dry. These guys love water. You may need fans, better ventilation or dehumidifiers. Fix any pipes that drip. Keeping moisture up is the most critical thing. There are also a billion things you can buy to kill them. They won't do much good though unless you follow the prevention tips. But if you do do all the prevention you can, pesticides will get them out of your house much faster. Like I said, even after you've cleaned, they can live for up to a year without food. If you want even more tips on getting rid of silverfish, copy and paste this address into your browser. http://www.getridofthings.com/get-rid-of-silverfish.htm Here you will find more prevention and eradication tips. There is also a nice section on natural and organic methods to get rid of these little cuties. Good Luck, BDeyes Silverfish are a sign of a moisture or humidity problem. Lower you AC a few degrees to dehumidify your home, simplest solution. If you have a bad problem there is a product called Niban, a boric acid and corncob bait that works wonders with a very ,very low, (we're not allowed to say no),toxicity level to warm blooded animals Silverfish require water. They thrive in moist, rotten pockets within walls and under bathroom floors, etc. So, they indicate a larger problem of water damage. Eliminate the moisture, silverfish have no habitat.
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I just installed a new polished porcelain tile floor. Do I need to seal the tile as well as the grout, or just the grout? The dealer where I bought the tiles said to make sure and seal the tiles, but I don't know why. No you don't want sealer on the tiles, or you'll have a problem like a previous poster did. The sealer will wear and look bad. Thats the whole point of the porcelain tile..the fired glaze. Can't believe the dealer told you that, I've never heard of sealing the tiles. As a matter of fact, all the sealer instructions say to wipe it off the tiles quickly if it gets on them. Sorry Vic, but you are wrong on all count. Polished porcelain tiles are NOT glazed. Polished porcelain tiles require sealing to fill the microscopic pores that develop in the polishing process. YES, polished porcelain is MORE porous than UN polished porcelain. Often it is required to seal them before grouting. If the same tile was instead UN polished, you might have an argument, although you could still seal the tile. You can even seal glazed tiles, they have pores too. Penetrating sealers DO NOT change to appearance of the tile or grout in any way. There is NOTHING that remains on the surface. Always follow directions of course. Some people forget to wipe off the excess as directed, leaving a white residue. Jaz OK, Jaz, clear me up some..... Bathroom tile, you know, the 4 x 4 stuff you can get at HD or wherever, is that a porcelain tile? Or am I confusing ceramic and porcelain? Maybe i better stick to garage doors and openers...lol The typical cheap boring 4 1/4 bathroom wall tile is glazed ceramic. Then you have glazed porcelain, unglazed porcelain and polished porcelain. There are other finishing textures but those are also unglazed. One difference is the density of the bisque irrespective of whether it's glazed or not. Basic ceramic wall tiles have an absorption rate of about 18%. For a tile to be porcelain it has to absorb .5% or less. Many I know of are as low as .02%. This really has little to do with sealing, but I thought I'd answer your question about basic wall tiles. Here's another one for you. Applying certain penetrating sealers to glazed floor tiles, whether ceramic or porcelain, will increase its coefficient factor thereby making it LESS slippery. Jaz O.K., now that you've convinced me to seal the tile -- as well as grout -- what is the best way to do that? I tried a sample tile under the refrigerator, the sealer beaded up and wiped off leaving a messy fog. It took some rubbing to get it out, still the tile when buffed out was not as shiny as the unsealed ones. I've got over 500 sq. ft. to do. Would it be wise to rent a buffing machine? Thanks for the detailed info -- it's hard to find elsewhere... What are the specifications for the tile bought? Real porcelain tile is very hard and dense, impervious and does not need sealed, and is frost free. Don't make a decision until you learn the specs on the tile. If you know the manufacturer, call them. Grout, of course, should be sealed. It seems the easiest way to get the 'specs' is to ask the dealer, but the dealer already told me the tile needs to be sealed. There seems to be enough debate on sealing polished porcelain (this thread and many previous threads) that I guess I'll just go by what the dealer recommends, which is to seal it. The question now is how best to do that. OK, one more person over in the corner. .... Guess I might have to search for a thread we had at another place about 5-6 years ago? Some people just don't want to believe that polished porcelain should be sealed. Maybe they never used any? What spec should Walks be looking for? If it's porcelain he will find that it should be sealed. So then if it's NOT as dense you think it would then not need to be sealed? ah..ah..ah.. How do you apply it? What does it say on the container? Jaz Unglazed porcelain is usually treated as a natural stone product. Go to www.stonecare.cm to learn about porcelain care. You keep forgetting we're talking about polished porcelain. Of all the types of tiles, porcelain is the one that is most UNLIKE natural stone. One is somewhat porous, the other very dense....as even you stated before. I know this tile stuff can be very difficult, but we'll figure it out soon? Jaz Originally Posted by JazMan Some people just don't want to believe that polished porcelain should be sealed. Maybe they never used any? Jaz JazMan -- You quoted some data on absorption rates: 18% for ceramic tile, 0.5% or less for porcelain. What about polished porcelain? What is the downside of NOT sealing polished porcelain? Wow it's late here, just got in. If it's porcelain, it has to be under 1/2 of one percent, (.5%). Many are well under that. Polished porcelain really should have been sealed before it was grouted, and then again after just to be safe. Your question is impossible to answer because you can not have it both ways with the same tile in the same room. All I know is that it will not hurt to seal it now even if in the end it didn't really make any noticeable difference. I mean...how would you now? If you'll take a few hours and do some research you should be able to find the info I know? Also try to find a sealer that doesn't mention porcelain as one of the types of tiles it's made for. Well, it's beyond that because I'm sure the manufacturer of your tile wanted you to seal it, unless they applied a thin glaze to it? Give me the brand, series and color or your tile, I will check into it further. Jaz Originally Posted by JazMan Polished porcelain really should have been sealed before it was grouted, and then again after just to be safe. Jaz Why?? I did not seal it before grouting. The grout cleaned up real nice. What will happen if I don't seal it at all? Dirt buildup? Cracking? Discoloration? Originally Posted by JazMan All I know is that it will not hurt to seal it now even if in the end it didn't really make any noticeable difference. Jaz It's close to 600 sq. ft. and a lot of buffing -- a significant investment of time. That would hurt (my budget) -- if it's really not necessary. Originally Posted by JazMan Give me the brand, series and color or your tile, I will check into it further. Jaz It's 20x20 Paladino Bellizzi, made in China, distributed by Emser Tile (main office = Los Angeles). Thanks again. Polished porcelain does have pores and will absorb some sealer. It certainly wont hurt to seal them. Also it will be difficult to just seal the grout and not get some sealer on the edges of the tiles. This may slightly change the look of the tile edges. See this link from the emser site. http://www.emser.com/showroom/tporcelain.html I could not find your particular tile there but look at the very bottom of the link page above. It says Maintenance While it is not necessary, it is always recommended that unglazed porcelain tile be sealed. Emser representatives can recommend appropriate sealers. Polished porcelain is unglazed.
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Starting my basement finish. Just got done tearing down the CRAP blanket insulation the builder left behind. New home. My plan was 2 PINK foam board against the concrete, followed by framed 2x4 walls, and R-13 fiberglass (non-faced) insulation in between the 2x4's. After research and the fact that non-faced fiberglass can only be special ordered in my area, I found Roxul and the R-15 Roxul costs about the same as the special order fiberglass. Not to mention it's in stock. I have searched google over and over (as well as forums) and my question still remains. Since the Roxul is R-15 would it be okay to go with 1 XPS board instead of the 2 that I was planning on? That would give me an effective R-20 which is okay for my area. My concern is 1 being too small as an effective vapor barrier to prevent condensation on the poured concrete foundation wall. I have searched all over and can't really determine the difference between 1 and 2 except the R-value and the 2 is a substantial premium. Your thoughts? Thanks! My thought is that the vapor barrier needs to be next to the heated area, immediately behind the drywall and in front of the insulation in the framing. keeping the insulation dry is the point. Why did you not want to use FG with a vapor barrier? How much of the wall is below grade? Vapor barriers can be a problem in a basement since there is no opportunity to dry to the outside below grade. XPS is actually rated as a vapor diffusion retarder and allows a small amount of moisture vapor to pass through, thus drying to the inside. But this is a very small amount and easily absorbed by the air inside. But vapor diffusion is not water movement. All potential for leakage must be corrected before you build those walls and that is done from the outside. If your code will allow, 1 of XPS will be fine in combination with the Roxul. The critical area is the exposed concrete above grade and about a foot below. And don't forget to air seal and insulate the rim above the concrete. The latest debate on vapor barriers, even the experts can't agree. Reviving an Old Debate on Vapor Barriers | GreenBuildingAdvisor.com And a link on basements: http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...lation-systems Bud Thanks for the replies. I am not going to use a vapor barrier. I was referring to the difference between 1 and 2 xps for vapor diffusion if you will. Our code is stupid. They will allow basements to be r10 continuous or r11 and above. I'm doing at least r20. I am more concerned about condensation rather than rvalue. 2 is obviously half the perm rating of 1, but for a dry basement either should allow some slight drying to the inside. As for cost vs effectiveness, 1 plus the Roxul will perform well. The basement temperature would be the the same for both 1 and 2. The only difference would be a slight increase in heat loss through the 1 combination. That's where the calculations come in, estimating the added loss and cost as compared to the additional cost of the 2 insulation. Give me your HDD (heating degree days), area above grade, area below grade and intended set temperature down there and I can run those numbers. Also, your source of heat, oil, gas, electric and how new your system is. Condensation is at a higher risk for the above grade area so tape the seams well to prevent any air seeping through with inside moisture. Roxul is very dense so it will help Below grade it is less of a problem as the ground temperature stays warmer the farther you go down. Air sealing where the house rests on the foundation is an important fix, as normal (stack effect) air flow pushes cold air into the lower portions of a house and the warm air up and out the upper leaks. If you have an atmospheric draft heating system, you will need to consider your source of combustion air. Bud Vapor Barriers or Vapor Diffusion Retarders | Department of Energy BSD-106: Understanding Vapor Barriers - Building Science Information Our heating degree days are 6301 (Live in Utah). The furnace is natural gas and home was built in August so furnace is brand new. 95% efficiency. When you talk area above grade do you mean the main floor and basement sq footage? 1474 above and basement is 1424. Or do you mean parts of the basement foundation that are not covered by dirt outside? The whole basement except the right side is underground. 30% of the right side of basement is not underground due to the hill we live on. If I am totally off how do I calculate the above and below grade area? I can provide pics if helpful. I would like the set temp anywhere from 69-74 depending on how hot my main floor will get due to the thermostat being on the main floor. I am aware that this is not the best setup for the heat source in the basement but a second furnace is out of the question (cost), and I looked into zone systems but those seem like they would be expensive as well. Not to mention the dampers seem to break on people a lot. What we use is the exposed area of the foundation, plus a bit to go down an extra foot. But what you gave me is close enough. These numbers don't need to be anywhere near exact as the answer we want is the difference between the two calculations. So, here we go. Roughly, a 1,500 ft? house and same for basement. We will call it a 30' x 50' basement with 3 plus feet on average of exposed concrete. 160' perimeter times 3' would be 480 ft? so call it 500 ft? of heat loss area. The equation is: Q = (U x A x HDD x 24)/ 90,000 which will give you the Therms per year through the area specified. Q is the heat, normally in BTUs, but I divide that by BTUs per Therm to convert to Therms. U = 1/R HDD is the 6,300 24 is hours per day to correct the terms for the HDD 90,000 is BTUs per Therm. NG has about 100,000 BTUs per Therm, discounted to 90% for furnace efficiency and some delivery losses (leaky ducts, warm up, and such). It gets easier. Since A, HDD, 24, and the 90,000 will remain the same, we calculate those first and get 840 for a multiplier (500 x 6300 x 24)/90,000 = 840. We then divide that number by any R-value we want to evaluate for the wall. Dividing by R is the same as multiplying by U. Before your improvements, your basement walls are using 840 divided by 2 or 420 Therms. With R-20 walls (the 1 foam) 840 is divided by 20 for 42 Therms. With R-25 walls (the 2 foam) 840 is divided by 25 for 33.6 Therms. At $1.00 per Therm, you would be paying $420 per year to heat the basement to 70? with no improvements. HDD is based upon 70?. $42 per year to heat it with the 1 option and $33.60 per year to heat it with the 2 option. Going to 2 inch foam will save you $8.40 per year. In this case, 1 will breathe a little better than the 2 and do the job just fine. If you want me to sharpen my pencil and fine tune these numbers I can, but this is a very good look at the range of savings. If your concrete walls have some imperfections you want to smooth out before attaching the rigid foam, an angle grinder works great. If you want it even better, use a diamond cup. Thought I would mention those just before xmas . Bud Bud, WOW! Your the man. Thanks for that. The difference in cost from 1 to 2 is $10 per board in my area. Total cost difference around $400. With your calculation it would take roughly 47 years to break even! Hardly worth it. So I think I will just go with the 1 XPS and in between the 2x4 wall the r-15 Roxul. I am also going to do the rim joists. The builder has r11 fiberglass up in those areas. Should I stick with 1 XPS here as well or up it to 2 XPS for the rim joists? Once I put in the foam I am going to use great stuff (I wonder how many cans that will take) to seal the edges of the foam. Should I throw the r11 fiberglass back up in there to take up the cavity space, use Roxul to take up the space, or just leave it? You can play with that equation anywhere in the house. There are just a few guesstimates necessary to get all of the pieces to add up to your total energy use. I like, walls, windows/doors, ceiling, foundation, and air leakage, as the 5 major groups. When you see those add up and come close to what you are actually spending you gain confidence in the numbers you put into the math. Not sure what your NG prices are, but when they were headed to $7 a Therm, the decisions were different. My current oil prices, adjusted for BTUs, are 3.5 times that $1.00 per therm. If we only knew what fuel prices were going to be 10 yrs from now. I'm adding 3.5 of foam over the entire exteriors walls of my house, I think prices are going up in time. As for the rim joist, I would use Roxul for all of it, R-20 or better. Use caulking or foam to seal first. I find caulking less expensive and gives a better seal with small gaps. You can run your finger over it to smooth it out and push it into place. You can't touch that foam until it drys and then it is a pain to trim. You can use up and scraps of leftover 1 foam, just double or triple them up. A bale or two of 6 Roxul makes for a nice quick job, it is already cut to width. Enjoy and let us know how it comes out. Bud PS, use pressure treated wood anywhere it will contact the concrete.
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My attic gets so hot during the summer months in N. VA that the AC can't keep the top floor of the house cool, even if I keep the first floor AC unit at some icy cool temp. The attic has a ridge vent, but I'm looking to do something more to cool it off. Any recommendations on using the radiant barrier attic foil? Don't know if it works, would cause condensation in the winter months, etc. Don't know much of anything about it. Should I just go with turbines or an attic fan? Thanks. bstruthers OK, if your attic is more than about 10 degrees hotter than outside temp your ridge vent isn't doing it's job. The most common causes of this are (1) not enough, or any openings at the soffit/ insulation is blocking air from the soffit to the ridge, air can't go out unless air is coming in, (2) ridge vent was attached without a slot being cut in the decking at the ridge (don't laugh, I've seen this more than once), (3) your gable vents are open, preventing the air circulating from the soffit to the ridge. After checking these 3 you may still find that you want the radiant barrier, you guys get enough heat to justify it but with proper ridge and soffit vents you may not need it. Good luck. Frank Will check and let you know. Thanks for your help. For get the R/B the US gov. said its down hill and after 5 its done for. Get some good power vent fans up there in the attic. You dont say if you have vents in the overhang there at all they are a must. ED It's a pretty new house so I do have vents, but I have no idea (yet) if they are plugged up, most likely with insulation if they are. Check at home depot and lowes. They have a called rafter vent made out of foam that can slide over the insulation next to the roof and let the air up from the vents in the over hang up into the attic. This is put in all new homes now. ED Originally Posted by bstruthers My attic gets so hot during the summer months in N. VA that the AC can't keep the top floor of the house cool, even if I keep the first floor AC unit at some icy cool temp. The attic has a ridge vent, but I'm looking to do something more to cool it off. Any recommendations on using the radiant barrier attic foil? Don't know if it works, would cause condensation in the winter months, etc. Don't know much of anything about it. Should I just go with turbines or an attic fan? Thanks. bstruthers Radient barrier won't help. You need to increase not only the insulation in your attic to an approved modern level (probably R-30 minimum) but also will need to increase your attic ventilation. Some type of attic ridge vents have been known to fail or not operate at all (like Cobra Vents). You also may need to replace your ridge vent and assure properly operating eave vents as well. Also, utilizing a ridge vent along with a gable or other type vent will rendert the ridge vent useless. Ed, In one of your posts you menitoned that the US gov. said its down hill and after 5 its done for. Could you elaborate on that a little please? Was this concerning dust accumulation or the material breaking down or? I've been doing so research on radiant barriers, specifically retrofitting existing structures, and I haven't ran across anything negative so far. Any information you can share would be appreciated. Soffit vents are wide open. Plenty of air coming in through there. Ridge vent runs almost the entire length of the roof and is about 3-4 inches wide. Covered by about a half inch of something that looks a bit like a black brillo pad with the shingles on top. For someone who doesn't know much in this area, it all looks pretty well set up, but upstairs AC was working hard the other day just to keep the top floor around 78-79 degrees. Couldn't get it any cooler until evening. Had someone out to look at the AC unit about a month ago, and he said all is well. Covered by about a half inch of something that looks a bit like a black brillo pad with the shingles on top. They have been comeing up with that filter like you have there gets stopped up with dust. Like you air filter on the AC. You say you get air from the overhang so put a power vent fan there on the roof. Is you insulation up to the R 30 or better. do you have all the vent you need up there. You need 1 sq per 1 sq ft of attic 1/2 in and 1/2 out. Attic vent fan attic sq ft X 0.7=== CFM of fan Yes the gov said the dust on the R/B kills it in about 5 years. ED Ed, Thanks for answering. So can I assume that if I install it on the bottom (attice side) of the roof decking, or perhaps some other design where dust won't accumulate, the barrier's effectiveness won't be compromised after five or more years? Bstruthers, Do you have two separate A/C units? Central, window, or ? Originally Posted by bstruthers Covered by about a half inch of something that looks a bit like a black brillo pad with the shingles on top. That brillo pad stuff is extremely restrictive and blocks 90% of the airflow. It's just a poor design. In our part of the country (Oklahoma) wind turbines are popular and work well, but we have one of the highest average wind speeds in the country. Electric fan WILL cool the attic but the cost to run them can exceed the savings in A/C costs when compared with a well designed passive solution. Fan motors have an average life of about 5 years, the PSC (capacitor motor) types last much longer than the fans that use shaded pole motors. Do you have whole house forced air ? Maybe its just a matter of circulation. Close off supply vents in your lower levels somewhat, and make sure that upper story vents are open fully. If your upper story return-air vents are only located at floor level - consider tying in ceiling return air vents, and change the lower vents to have dampers. That way you'll push the heavy cold air to the upstairs supply vents, and siphon off hot air from the ceiling return for cooling. Here's a link: http://www.askthebuilder.com/printer...Problems.shtml I have found radiant barrier to be quite effective. In my own house stapling the RB up to the roof joists reduced my attic temperature by about 25 degrees on a sunny day. I live in Texas and no amount of attic ventilation can keep an attic cool. Powered attic vents can suck conditioned air out of your house. Dust is not an issue when you staple Radiant Barrier up to the roof joists. Dust doesn't hurt all that much anyway, (15% or so) when you install a double sided Radiant Barrier on top of the ceiling insulation. The link below will help with more information on installing RB Installing Radiant Barrier Originally Posted by Danwalter I have found radiant barrier to be quite effective. In my own house stapling the RB up to the roof joists reduced my attic temperature by about 25 degrees on a sunny day. I live in Texas and no amount of attic ventilation can keep an attic cool. Powered attic vents can suck conditioned air out of your house. Dust is not an issue when you staple Radiant Barrier up to the roof joists. Dust doesn't hurt all that much anyway, (15% or so) when you install a double sided Radiant Barrier on top of the ceiling insulation. The link below will help with more information on installing RB Installing Radiant Barrier Thanks Dan. I bought some RB on Wednesday but I haven't installed it yet. I am going to staple it up to the roof joists. I saw Ed mention several times the RB wouldn't be any good and it had me worried. I bought mine from Innovative Insulation http://www.radiantbarrier.com/ because they are close to me in Arlington. I couldn't get a hold of the guy at http://www.blocktheheat.com/FoilHome.htm and I didn't know about www.energyefficientsolutions.com at the time. Understanding the dynamics of heat gain into a home is pretty simple. First, you must understand that all an air conditioner does is remove or suck out heat from a home. The LESS heat it has to remove the lower the cost. So anything to reduce the heat gain into a home will help. Here are the main areas to focus on. Everybody is trying to find the silver bullet, but it's always a combination of several things. Glazing - windows are a huge source of heat gain. You can either use film or solar screens. Kneewalls - If you have them, you must encapsulate them on the attic side with foamboard, bubble foil or similar product. These are called Hot Walls Open Chases - Basically this is air getting between the floors from the attic. usually blocking was not done in the construction process. Batt insulation stuffed in the trusses WILL NOT stop air infiltration. Read the EPA/EnergyStar Thermal Bypass Checklist here: http://www.energystar.gov/ia/partner...ypassGuide.pdf Duct Sealing - the most neglected area in most homes. Why bother putting more money into other areas if 20-50% of the cold air you ar buying ends up in the attic? SEAL THE DUCTS!! Attic Ventilation - Good ventilation is critical to reduce heat gain into the ducts by lowering the temperature differential between the attic and the ducts (just stay away from mechanical ventilation methods - Fans etc.) Wind turbines are best, but the most common problem is dirty or clogged soffit vents. I've cleaned the soffit vents on a home and the attic temperature dropped 20 degrees in 15 minutes. Ventilation is TWO PARTS - air IN the bottom and OUT the top. MUST have both. RADIANT BARRIER (www.AtticFoil.com) - Will make a HUGE difference in the heat gain into the attic only. You must COMBINE radiant barrier foil with good attic ventilation to be fully effective. Finally, HOME SEALING to reduce air infiltration. Start with the can lights, attic door and all sources of potential outside air. I have been reading about Radiant Barriers and have a question. How does this product affect the roof decking and shingles life? do they not get hotter with the RB attached to the rafters? Generally roof temperatures will increase between 2-10єF. This is from the department of energy website: http://www.ornl.gov/sci/roofs+walls/radiant/rb_03.html From personal experience this is generally true. This small increase is well within the temperature range for all shingles and most (if not all) shingle manufacturers warranty the shingles over a radiant barrier. However, most attics are under-ventilated. This will cause more of an increase in shingle temperature than radiant barrier foil. In fact, MOST roofs warranties are technically void for not meeting the ventilation requirements. Stay Cool! I live in dallas, it gets hot. Do i need a vapor barrier or not on a double sided RB. also perforated vs not perforated. ALso is there a tensil strength that I need to be looking for, and last, is the bubble RB worth it. having a double bubble will help to increase the chance that the barrier will get to your site with a higher % of the bubbles intact. Me personally..i think it's worth it. OK RB do not work unless it is closed cell spray foam or the RB paint! Originally Posted by willarrington I live in dallas, it gets hot. Do i need a vapor barrier or not on a double sided RB. also perforated vs not perforated. ALso is there a tensil strength that I need to be looking for, and last, is the bubble RB worth it. I am in the Dallas area too. For attic applications you do not need or want a vapor barrier. Go with a perforated product to allow moisture vapor to pass through. Double sided is the way to go. Many people get wound up about the effect of dust on a radiant barrier. This can be disputed all day, but no one can dispute that dust does not affect the side that faces down. This calls on the emissivity quality of the product (ability NOT to emit radiant heat) So it will always work. As far as strength, radiant barrier foil comes in basically two weights. 14-16 lbs/1000 square feet and 26-28 lbs/1000 square ft. The heavyweight is only about $10 per 1000 ft. more and is worth it since it will never tear and you can pull it tight without tearing after stapling it to the bottom of your rafters. I don't even mess with the midweight and only sell the heavyweight radiant barrier perforated foil. Bubble foil for attics is not worth it. All you need is a radiant barrier. Bubble foil is great for hot water heater, walls, and metal buildings. It is really intended to be placed against a hot or cold surface and add r-value. In an attic, you have have air flowing on both sides so r-value means nothing. Here is an example: If you are on the beach you want a big umbrella to stop the radiant heat, right? If I gave you an umbrella 2 inches thick made of styrofoam would it work any better than the regular umbrella? No, because the air temperature is the same on both sides. Bubble foil will work fine, but you are paying extra for the r-value (thickness) when you don't need it. Stay Cool. Originally Posted by airman.1994 OK RB do not work unless it is closed cell spray foam or the RB paint! Actually Radiant Barriers are VERY effective, they reduce radiant heat gain by 97% (the sheets that is). Also the RB paints are not as effective as the RB sheets as they only reduce radiant heat gain by 93%. Im not sure what you mean by closed cell spray foam because it is not a radiant barrier, it is an insulator. Radiant heat is a type of thermal radiation and insulation doesn't stop it, but a reflective low emissivity product will. This is why Radiant Barrier does work very well. A double sided RB will work to keep heat out in the summer and keep heat in during the winter. I Here we go again! Sheets of RB do work well! For a year or two until they get a dust coating which will eliminate the reflective properties. You said the paint will do 93% Every thing I've seen is in the 60% range. Closed cell foam works best because radiant heat will not travel threw it. Whenever I need a boost to my spirits, I find myself looking at either automotive motor oil forums or radiant barrier forums. Reading each should brighten up anyone's day. My own $.02 regarding radiant barriers. Live in San Antonio, where we've had 90+ daytime highs since early May. Had the entire attic done in the middle of March - perforated foil stapled to undersides of rafters, including area over garage. Have full length ridge vents with unobstructed soffit vents. 3-ton 17+ year old A/C unit appears to be cycling less often for shorter periods of time. So far, our RB appears to be doing what was claimed for it to do. Due to month long vacation out of state last summer, won't be able to compare apples to apples about $$$ saved using RB. Will try to keep track for the entire year to see just what savings if any happen. Originally Posted by elgrandekazoo Whenever I need a boost to my spirits, I find myself looking at either automotive motor oil forums or radiant barrier forums. Reading each should brighten up anyone's day. My own $.02 regarding radiant barriers. Live in San Antonio, where we've had 90+ daytime highs since early May. Had the entire attic done in the middle of March - perforated foil stapled to undersides of rafters, including area over garage. Have full length ridge vents with unobstructed soffit vents. 3-ton 17+ year old A/C unit appears to be cycling less often for shorter periods of time. So far, our RB appears to be doing what was claimed for it to do. Due to month long vacation out of state last summer, won't be able to compare apples to apples about $$$ saved using RB. Will try to keep track for the entire year to see just what savings if any happen. I live in San Antonio too. We were interested in the spray on stuff from mailers we've gotten, until I started reading that it doesn't work as well. Foil seems the way to go. How much did it cost to have the foil installed in your attic and who did it?
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I am having problems starting my snowblower. I have replaced the diaphragm, cleaned out the carb, cleaned out the fuel tank and filter, and replaced the spark plug. What happens is that the snowblower will start and run very rough for a brief period of time and then quit. I then cannot start up the snowblower again. Does this have something to do with the carb adjustment screws? Originally Posted by Toroman I am having problems starting my snowblower. I have replaced the diaphragm, cleaned out the carb, cleaned out the fuel tank and filter, and replaced the spark plug. What happens is that the snowblower will start and run very rough for a brief period of time and then quit. I then cannot start up the snowblower again. Does this have something to do with the carb adjustment screws? Do you have the model and serial number of this unit? It MIGHT have two adjustment screws on the left side of the carb. Carefully turn them all the way in, then turn them out one and a half turns. If it starts then, adjust the screws until it runs smoothly at idle. put it under a load, and if it doesnt respond with an rpm increase, open the high speed screw in quarter turn increments. Thanks so much for your reply. It does have the screws on the left of the carb, but they don't seem to have much of an effect when I turn them. How sensitive are they to each turn? When it did start earlier, it only ran briefly and there wasn't enough time for me to adjust the screws. Is there a way to get it to start and run roughly so that I can fine-tune the screws? You said you replaced the spark plug. Did you check to see if it fired outside the head before you installed it? (If you did, did you check it after it tried to run to see if It was fouled ? I cant remember whether the S-200 had a primer bulb or not. If yours does, can you prime it to the point where you can see fuel in the cup on the air intake? If you cant, you may have installed the diaphragm upside down, or you have a plugged inlet. The turns I gave you on the jets SHOULD get you started enough to fine tune it. unless there is something else wrong with it. (Is this your own, or are you recycling it from somewhere else? My neighbor brought one over that did the same thing, HIS had a blown head gasket. You can check that by taking out the 4 screws that hold the head on the block but be careful, you tear it, and you have to buy a new one. Good luck! Still no luck with getting it to start. How can I check to see if the spark plug is firing? You can remove the plastic case without removing some of the controls attached to it and set aside. Then you can remove the plug with a socket wrench and attach the wire to it. Ground the plug on the head and check to see if you an see any spark. You need gas and spartk to fire these engines.
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Last week I did my first plaster crown mould. I didn't want it, mind you, but the alternatives were too costly or too time consuming. It seemed like a simple enough thing to do. It was a 8R outside curve. A small job. I made a template out of a cheap trowel. I used plaster of paris. I applied it to the corner and made a strike. 30 minutes later I did the same thing again, building it up to the height I needed. The final product was disappointing. I could never get a really smooth surface in the plaster even through I was thinning it as much I could. When it dried, I had to spend a couple hours filing and sanding trying to get an acceptable job. Plaster of paris does not sand well. Did I use the wrong product? What is the secret? I saw them do it on This Old House about 6 months ago and I did what they did as best I can remember. Thanks for your expertise. I'm going to move your thread into the Patching and plastering forum of the website. Hi Doing plaster crown molding is hard to do. you cant buy experience you have to earn it. Professional plaster go to trade school to learn it. It's not something you can learn overnite. On this old house they have pro not diy people. Check your location if they offer plaster course as hobby. Good luck thats why i used the fiber type crown less expensive as wood. cheers pg pg said a mouthful in that post and very true too! But if you've got the time and patience, you can usually eventually reach acceptable results. Personally I go with the resin trim pieces myself, alot quicker cheaper IMO. Anyway I believe what you should be using is a molding plaster, don't think you'll get acceptable result with the plaster of paris. Lot of guys make a cast or mold of the piece then pour the plaster into the mold, pure soap like ivory is used on the mold as a release agent. Baking soda can be sprinkled onto the mold as well after it sets up you wash away the soda off the surface it will give you a pitted look like natural stone. Tightcoat others here with more plaster experience may have more suggestions for you. Good luck Happy New Year! :glocke: The local Depot store held an instore workshop to show how easy the resin precast product was to use. I bought it for 2 rooms and it flew up with the inside corners and outside corners already to put up. Just straight runs in between and you have a beautiful crown moulding. BTW almost everyone watching the workshop in the store was sold on it. Coping (no pun intended) much better these days now. HAPPY NEW YEAR. -Bob
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I am replacing a patio door with one fixed full view panel, and one inswinging door with full view panel. Original to the house, the current set appears to be single paned and my wife complains all the time about the cold during the winter. At two different box stores, I priced the replacement. I believe the brands were Feather River, Andersen, Jeld Wen, Pella, and Reliabilt. All but Pella were spec'd with low e double pane glass. The Pella came with Argon filled glass. The price differences, even discarding the very expensive Pella unit, were significant, ranging from $600 to $1600. Now I understand that different quality materials, manufacturing methods, and warranties account for much of this difference; no questions there. My question is whether there would be any differences in the INSULATING qualities of the glass panels in the different units. If I buy foam or fiberglass, I can see an R value printed on the product packaging. However, none of the manufacturers of these doors provide any similar value for the insulating qualities of the glass panels. It is either intentional, or there is no difference among them, I guess. Anyone know anything different? If you go with an energy star rated door you will get the best R values for your door. It is more than the glass, it is the construction of the frame and door body as well. Some of the more expensive models (Anderson and Pella) use a vinyl clad construction in which wood is wrapped by vinyl. Results in a more solid door. But if it qualifies for the energy star rating you should be OK. Low e and Argon I believe are more effective in hot sunny climates. Residential Windows, Doors and Skylights : ENERGY STAR About eight years ago I had my French doors and one window in a bathroom replaced. I specified triple-pane with argon filled low-E construction. The job was five grand. The old door had dual pane glass but you got cold standing in front of it. The new door has roughly 50% more glass area and I never feel cold standing in front of it. A knowledgeable salesman would be able to tell you the u-value of the glass package on the units you are looking at. They should have a value for their plain glass... for their low-e package and then they usually have a high end low-e2 argon, april fresh, glass package. Usually when a customer can see the value of upgrading the glass it makes the choice easier. The closer the u-value is to zero the better. So a .27 is better than a .30 and a .30 is better than a .36. No self respecting salesman will give an r-value on glass because it's a misleading figure. Glass loses energy so you want a number that tells you what the RESISTANCE is to heat loss. If you were in Texas or Arizona, you'd probably be more concerned with heat gain in the summer, which is the SHGC figures, which I won't get into. (solar heat gain coefficient). I won't say all glass is created equal, but generally, you should compare a low-e price to another door with a low-e price. Not comparing clear glass to a price that includes low-e2 and argon. I'd like to make a few observations about the Energy Star rating, just to get it off my chest. Energy Star is a good benchmark. IMO, it was established to help people who are confused by a lot of numbers. Someone picked a mediocre u-value and SHGC and said that minimum standard is good enough for all/most climates in the US and/or Canada, which really is kind of misleading in a way. A person could think that if their glass meets Energy Star qualifications that it's a good window/door and that it won't frost up in the winter. That couldn't be further from the truth. You could have 2 windows/doors that both have energy star stickers, and one could theoretically be 40% better than the other. But to the average customer, if they look the same, you would think they were equal in quality- after all, they both have the sticker. The only way you would know the difference is to look at the u-value statistics mentioned earlier. Energy Star is, in a way, a method used to dumb down the figures for people who don't understand or know interpret them. It has its place though as a minimum standard, so I'm not knocking it. Thanks for the info. Let me make a few observations: a) The only argon model I looked at was Pella, and the price for my application was about $2800, with their 15% promotion applied. My objection to the Pella unit was first price, as I'll never see the full payback (leaving this home in 5-6 years); second, the proprietary hardware, which the sales person said I could not buy separately (I have another identical set of doors --- not being replaced at this time --- 15 feet away on the same wall. Would like the hardware to match). b) I had forgotten that it was the U value, not the R value but no door I received quotes on displayed a U value. As far as a good salesman would know the U value, I agree, but hey --- I'm shopping at Lowe's and Home Depot. I feel I've run into an expert if they can actually bring the doors up on their computers.. c) I am Zone 7 (Northern Virginia) but the door is on a north facing wall --- it never receives any direct sun at any time of the year. You've lost me XSleeper. R is just the reciprocal of U, so the two are just inversely related. My two cents worth, and I am no expert, is that glass insulating values rise as the separation of the panes increases, but only up to an inch. Beyond an inch, convection currents set in and insulating value drops. Correct, Handyman. What I was referring to are the snake oil salesmen who say that their window boasts an R-13, and just as warm as an insulated wall. (Which is pure BS... as they are lying through their teeth, or at the least, stretching the truth about one small component of a window) If a window is 90% glass, and the glass has a u-value of .30, tell me how they get R-13 out of that? Anyone that talks about r values when talking about windows is blowing smoke, unless they are giving the REAL r-value of the total system, which, if the u-value is .25 would be R-4. Salesmen don't like to say their window is R-4 because in the mind of a customer, that would be very COLD compared to their R-13 wall. In actuality, a window that is R-4 is a pretty darn good window. It's just that the consumer hasn't been educated to know that. Again, it is more than the glass. You can have a premier pane of glass, but if you install it in an aluminum frame, you will have a crappy overall unit. Most doors will be put up and secured through the frame and brick moldings added. Pella and Anderson offer doors with nailing flanges that can be sealed with window wrap and don't need a drip cap to keep water out. A sealed door nailing flange will also cut down on drafts. Pella has a 3 point locking system that you can get that would better apply positive pressure against weather stripping as an option. If you have operated both the high end doors and a standard door, there is a world of difference. Is it worth the extra money? I sometimes find it hard to justify. Kind of like putting $2000 rims on a $500 beater car. Your house will dictate what the upper limit should be. Anderson has a 25 year warranty on their glass.
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